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Via Dibona

 
Via Dibona

Page Type: Route

Location: Alto Adige - Sud Tirol, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.51200°N / 11.73200°E

Object Title: Via Dibona

Route Type: Rock Climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: iV

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: mbmspa

Created/Edited: Oct 9, 2003 / Oct 9, 2003

Object ID: 159038

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Approach


As for the majority of the ways that I describe also this one is very wild/alpinistic. It is also long.

Consider that you will find very limited tracks of other climbers. Finding the way is difficult.
Plan very well this climb and get as many information as you can. My description is NOT sufficient to go there safely. Inform yourself.

From P.so Sella go up on your left towards the SE ridge of Pta Grohman.
A little before leaving the meadows and reaching the rocks take a small path towards W and travers below the S face of Pta Grohman. You will be in big gully decending from Forcella Grohman. Pass the big rock that divides this big gully (1.15 hours).
Go up in the big gully until the rocks of the E face of Innerkofler seems to be easier.(100m I) (add another 45 min)

Route Description


- Go up n your left aiming at a tight chimney (40 m II and III)
- Go up in the chimney and aim to your left until you reach a small balcony (45 m III and IV)
- Traverse horizontally to wards left until you reach a small balcony on the SE ridge (40 m. III and III+)
- Go up again, follow a system of small chimneys until you reach a small pass between the face and a detached tower (100m III and III+)
- You go up on a trapezoidal placque (placca Dibona) until you reach the base of a chimney (40 m. III and IV)
- Go up in the chimney towards left and reach the summit ridge (80 m. III and III+)
- Follow the ridge, pass a small pass and then your are on the summit plateau (I and II)
Consider about 4 hours from the beginning of the climb

The descent will follow the opposite face. There are some cairns that can help you. If I remember well the descent will take about two hours to reach the bottom of the mountain and another two hours to go back to Pso Sella.

Essential Gear


Very wild, even wilder than the Pta Grohman.
Normal climbing equipment. Consider that there are very few pitons on the way. SO bring also friends, nuts, pitons and hammer.

As usual this is a very high level description. Refer to a manual/book/alpine guide befor going up to have complete information


Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Simplified drawing of the way