> You start climbing just from the parking lot.
> A very attractive course (ledges, up the tower, across the bridge).
> Very good secured - enough iron for such a steep wall.
> The hut on top, nearby a nice lake.
> Possibility to prolongue on Cima Pisciadu.
Difficulty: On the International 5-point scale it is C. Almost vertical sections, but well equipped with iron hiolds and steps. Very exposed sections!
For more information about the broader area, see the parent page of Cima Pisciadu!
ApproachYou park on a big parking place (1956 m) on the road from Corvara to Passo Gardena (Groedner Joch), or, you start the tour on passo Gardena, which gives you a higher starting point but some more distance.
On a paths crossroads near the parking place 1956 m you take the marked path towards the East, follow it a hundred meters and on the next crossroad take the upper path. It takes you by the ledge to the bottom of a vertical wall. Over this wall the route is secured by a series of hooks. Above the wall the route soon reaches a broad ledge by which the Alta Via Dolomiti (High Dolomites Route) goes. You join this one for a short time, but soon turn again up (to the right) towards the real entry of the Via Ferrata Brigata Tridentina. This one becomes steep immediately, but also stays well protected all the time. It leads around the Exner Tower towards a waterfall, but before reaching it the route climbs vertically up the tower. A few places are really wild, although well protected all the time. On the upper part of Exner Tower the route turns again around it and reaches the famous hanging bridge which crosses a wild, narrow gorge. On the other side of the bridge the terrain is easy, so after overcoming the first rocks (still protected route) you only hike up a hundred meters more to the hut and the lake. 2 hours from the road.
From the Pisciadu Lake you follow the marked route No. 666 towards the South. It soon begins to climb steeper, a few steel cables help you overcome a rocky part and you enter the high Val de Tita. It is often covered with snow also in high summer, but is not steep. Where the path reaches the southern ridge of Cima Pisciadu, you are on a crossroads again. Marks lead you over a few rocks towards the North (left) and then by ledges not hard to the peak of Cima Pisciadu. 1,5 hours from the hut.
On the descent it is best to take the route through Val Setus. From the hut you follow the marked route No. 666 over the broad ridge towards the West. The upper part of Val Setus is again very steep and crumbly. Take care of falling rocks and other mountaineers! After you reach screes (or often snow!) the descent becomes more easy. Val Setus is a beautiful narrow valley, almost a gorge. It brings you directly to the parking place on the main road. 3 hours of descent from the peak of Cima Pisciadu.
Essential GearA helmet and gloves, eventually a climbing belt for the ferrata. Walking poles for hiking.
It's very important to start climbing early, because the route over Exner Tower is very crowded. We were simply sleeping on the parking place.