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Via ferrata Merlone

 
Via ferrata Merlone

Page Type: Route

Location: Alto Adige, Italy, Europe

Object Title: Via ferrata Merlone

Route Type: Via Ferrata

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Medium

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Herb

Created/Edited: Nov 13, 2006 / Nov 13, 2006

Object ID: 243620

Hits: 4486 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

The "Via ferrata Merlone" was built in 1966. It leads via the west pillar of the Cima Cadin Nord-Est to the summit.
The "Via ferrata" follows a previous climbing route (Difficulty: III according to UIAA).

The demands on climbers are average, the route itself is very steep, in some sections vertical.



You should plan half a day for this tour – and you should definitely reserve enough time for a stop-over at the Lake Misurina.

Lake Misurina
The lake Misurina, a nice place for a stop.

Getting There

Refer to the "Getting There" section of the parent page "Cima Cadin Nord-Est".

Route Description

Approach:

On the marked trail (no. 115) you reach the Tocci Pass in app. 75 minutes. Directly on the Tocci pass the nice hut "Fonda Savio" is located.

Route ("Via ferrata"):

You reach the start of the ferrata itself in about 25 minutes from the hut Fonda Savio, using the path marked with 116 and heading to the left at the junction near Cima Cadin Nord-Est (good red marks on the rocks until here). The path is not very visible from here, because it leads mostly through scree. But from here you can already see the start of the ferrata (blue arrow, ropes) and some ladders, when looking up the impressive wall.
Ropes lead via stepped rocks to the start of the so called "Heaven’s ladder". This series of ladders – with rope secured and some non secured easier parts inbetween – leads to a scree terrace (check possible rockfall-danger especially during this section).

Via ferrata Merlone -  Heaven s ladder
Looking back a series of ladders in the almost vertical section "Heaven's ladder".


From the exit you reach the summit very soon via a couloir (app. 75 minutes from the start of the ferrata).

Summit view:



For the descent typically the same route is used.

Total time: app. 5 hours

Hint:

Instead of going straight back to the trailhead, you can combine this tour with the northern part of the route “Sentiero Bonacossa” (marked with 101). Then the total time will be app. 7 hours.

Essential Gear

- A pair of good hiking shoes (you should feel comfortable with them during hiking and climbing)
- Helmet (because of rockfall danger)
- Harness and "Via ferrata set" with carabiners for belaying

Recommended:
- Hiking poles for the approach, if you prefer using them for hiking parts on the route

When To Climb

Best time: from the mid of June until the beginning of October

Mountain Huts

Rifugio Fonda Savio

Fonda Savio seen from Via ferrata Merlone
Rif. Fonda Savio seen from app. the middle of "Via ferrata Merlone".

For details refer to the "Mountain Huts" section of the parent page "Cima Cadin Nord-Est".

Literature

Map:
TABACCO (sheet number 03) "Cortina d’Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane" (1:25.000)

Books:
All sorts of ferrata-guides for the dolomites from the guide-author Eugen E. Hüsler

Images

Lake MisurinaFonda Savio seen from Via ferrata MerloneVia ferrata Merlone - "Heaven\'s ladder"Summit viewEnjoying the "Heaven\'s ladder"West pillar of Cima Cadin Nord-Est