Via Scorpion (Spindel)

Overview

P2

Spindel is a phallus-shaped tower located in a canyon with the Sourloti and Pixari formations forming the gateway. Via Scorpion offers the easiest line to the summit and starts on the south face (scramble up the easy pedestal to reach a belay ring where terrain steepens). The V- grade reflects the minimum required free climbing. Freeing pitch 1 (pitch as described here and not in the guidebook volume 1 requires VI+ climbing). The remainder of the route is a bolt ladder.

Getting There

Approach Direction

As you drive north from Kalambaka towards Kastraki, you will pass an indistinct rightward fork (pointers to some hotels visible) shortly before entering Kastraki proper. Take this narrow road which will put you above the village. The road makes a run-around a low and slabby formation. Stay on it as it enters Kastraki and switchbacks its way uphill toward the mouth of the valley formed by Pixari (on right) and Sourloti. Park at the end near a church (?). Hike up the wide stair-stepped trail through dense vegetation past another church (?) where the trail changes to a single track. Trail will deposit you at the Spindel in about 10 minutes.

Route Description

Summit

P2

Pitch 1: VI+ or V- A0, 40 feet. Move up the steep but well featured rock to a 3-bolt belay.

Pitch 2: V- A0, 70 feet. Follow the bolt ladder up and right (turning the arête near the top) followed by a short slab section to summit.

Descent:
One double rope rappel from huge bolts on the summit.

Essential Gear

Gear NOT to bring.

Quickdraws and whatever you feel is needed for an A0 bolt ladder.

External Links

none.