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Via Sivy Zl'ab

 
Via Sivy Zl\'ab

Page Type: Route

Location: Tatra Mountains, Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: Via Sivy Zl'ab

Route Type: Hike

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 0+ ,steep walk-up in a rocky couloir ,snow fields

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Tomek Lodowy

Created/Edited: Jun 5, 2005 / Jan 7, 2007

Object ID: 165354

Hits: 1690 

Page Score: 70.83%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

The base for the climb is Zbojnicka Chata Chalet(1960) situated on a rocky terraces in the highest section of Velka Studena Valley .

The chalet is easily accessible by marked routes from Stary Smokovec ,Hrebienok or from Teryho Chata Chalet(2015) in neighbouring Mala Studena Valley crossing Priecne Sedlo Pass(2352) or from Prielom Pass(2288) (marked routes from Polsky Hreben and Belovodska Valley) .
The potential easiness of the last two routes refers of course to the summer conditions .
In winter - ice ,snow and usually serious avalanche danger so it is rather alpine climbing than simple hiking at that season .

You can try to stay in Smokovec and hike to Javorovy from there but it will take a few hours more ,adding walk-up through Velka Studena Valley

Route Description

The route via Sivy Zl'ab (Grey Couloir) is a classic and practically only tourist route enabling non-climbers reaching the summit of Javorovy Peak(2417) .

From Zbojnicka Chata : 4 km ,460 meters of height difference ,2 1/2 h ,no marks .

Javorovy and Ostry Peak from...
Javorovy Stit above Velka Studena valley


The route is "officially" and "legally" accessible only with authorized Tatra guide but You know ...who cares about this stupid guide monopol ?...
(there is some risk of fine when You meet bad people ,in Poland we call them "filanc"...)

Route description :

From Zbojnicka Chata Chalet - 100 meters to the north-west following blue marks to the trail crossing upon the lake(1986).
Then take yellow marks and after 0,5 km You pass another beatiful lake(2000) (On the 7th May 1969 ,on its NE shore helicopter fell down killing one HS rescueman ) . Now trail goes long loop into rocky depression crossing Velka Studena Valley down from well seen Maly Zavrat Pass(2270).
Our path leads along the southern cliffs of Javorovy Massif and then goes round the southern perch of Javorovy Peak .
After about 45 minutes (2 km) one achieves Sive Lakes' Valley(2011).
Now You have to turn left onto non-marked path going to the north by huge rocky screes to little valley under seen clearly saddle of Javorova Pass.
After about 1/2 h tiring walk-up You find long and distinctive couloir going almost parallel to the eastern ridge ending in huge sloping rocky field.
Walk up by this field ,then You enter the shadowy Sivy couloir (bottom usually filled with old snow for almost whole summer) .
Take first the right side of the couloir . After a few tens of meters turn right onto a ledge (way marked by small stony hillocks) and by the rocky walls to the saddle in the eastern ridge of Javorovy Peak .
From the saddle to the left on the long grassy plateau leading to the summit.

One of the most impressive summit panoramas in Tatras .

Javorovy Peak from the west...
Sivy couloir




Essential Gear

In good summer conditions when there is no/little snow in the couloir and rocks are dry : good hiking/trekking boots ,waterproofs .

In winter when conditions make it possble to hike :at least crampons and ice-axe .

High Mountain experience absolutely essential .

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Javorovy Peak from the west...Javorovy and Ostry Peak from...Slavkovsky Peak from Javorova...