Inauguron Dome, 5.10a-5.10c

Overview/Approach

Inauguron Dome along with its neighbor Elephant Arches are two of the more obscure climbing features in the whole park.  They are well hidden in South Wonderland behind Bighorn Mating Grotto, Disneyland and Diarrhea Domes.  Its south wall is also well protected by a fierce collection of brush and cactus.  These routes are rarely climbed therefore this mostly slab face is quite chossy, but it does feature a recommended moderate route in the local guide, Yardy, Ho and Away, 5.10a**.

I thought Yardy was overrated.  Except for its length, 165’, there was not much to brag about this route.  It meanders up mostly bolted chossy slab.  The rest of the routes on this south face did not look any more inviting.    There is a fixed rap on a sloping ledge that allows a single 70m rap vs the walk off required if you complete the second pitch.  Otherwise Yardy is a two-pitch route with a walk off climbers right.  The second pitch options (left and right) are both trad features that are well below the grade.

Park as you would for the main South Wonderland access, a dirt lot just 5 minutes from the “Pink House”.  Hike northwest into the heart of South Wonderland.  Freak Brothers is a stand out feature (multiple roofs, infamous traverse route: I Can’t Believe It is a Girdle, 5.10a***) on your right.  The next major feature on your right is Disneyland Dome.  Pass it and turn right into a nasty vegetated col between Disneyland and the next major rocks north. Cut back left once through the col and bushwhack brush and cacti to yet another opening on your right.  Bushwhack through this narrow passage to a cactus filled area with the obvious Elephant Arches (twin arches) straight ahead.  Turn right and fight the brush to the base of the routes.  Inauguron Dome and Elephant Arches' south faces are side by side rising out of the same cactus and brush choked wash.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Wall

Inauguron- 150’-5.11b**/

Morality Test- 150’-5.11b**/

Yardy Ho and Away- 165’-5.10a**/ Runout face climb up the middle of the slab.  It wanders right and then back left, more than the local guide topo suggests.  After the first clip, you head up and right to a short and shallow corner feature with a gear option.  Climb it to the top and start angling back up and left eventually pulling a juggy dike to a fixed rap/belay at 125’.  Fives bolts over 125’ with one gear option.  Some of the runout climbing between bolts is at the grade.  The finish pitch offers two options.  The left goes right off the fixed belay:  a lower angled left weighted finger corner for 40’.  Rope drag is such due to the wandering first pitch, that you will want to do this route in two pitches.  Dow

Beefcake- 85’-5.10a/

Wheat Beri-Beri- 85’-5.11c*/

White Bread Fever- 90'-5.11c*/