Page Type: | List |
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County: | Aymavilles, Gressan, Charvensod, Pollein, Grand Brissogne, Saint Marcel, Cogne Municipalities |
(M. Emilius, Testa Blantsette, Bca di Seneva, Pt. Emilius, Mont Ròss, Bca di Nona, La Dent, Pte del Lago Gelato, Trident de Comboé) NOTE: Where the name is not indicated it is Monte Emilius Summer, 1946: Aspirants Mountain Guides Valpelline's Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Aosta's Franco Garda first repetition E Wall, Gervasutti/Chabod of June 26th, 1935 Route in ascent from Les Laures with bivouac in Ernesto Ménabreaz Shelter/Blantsette Glacier. February 1949: Aspirants Mountain Guides Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Franco Garda first Winter N-NE Edge in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Gros Scez or Grand Sax/Carrel Hill/Western and Eastern Arpisson's Glaciers/Blantsette or Blanchet Testa and Carving. August 16th, 1955: Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian first solo on NE Ridge/N Edge; by Les Laures, Ernesto Menabreaz Hunting Shelter. Spring/Summer 1958: Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti, lone, NE Ridge up to the Black Triangle and traverse on E Wall, new route, in ascent in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill, two Arpisson's Glaciers/Testa Blansette & Blansette or Blanchet Pass or, better, small Carving. September 10/11th, 1960: Valpelline's Mountain Guides Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti and Pietro "Piero" Rosset first absolute on N Wall of Black Triangle, in ascent from Pila and in day by Comboé Alp (bivouac)/Carrel Hill/Western and Eastern Arpisson's Glaciers. September 05th, 1961: Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian first climbing solo on E Wall ("Central Direct Via" in respect to June 26th, 1935 Route, with direct variants in final part), in ascent in day from Ménabreaz Hunting Shelter/Blantsette moraine and overlying Glacier. Summer 1964: Renato Quendoz, lone; Becca di Nona N Wall (West Spur) first repetition, in day from Pila, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Morion Alp. September 03th, 1964: Ilario Antonio Garzotto, Osvaldo Cardellina, Dario Sergio Cardellina and Arturo Jemma; Becca di Nona new route W-SW Slope (more Western Rib); in ascent directly in day from Pian Felina (569m), Reverier Dessous, Ponteilles, Comboé, Plan Valé. In mid-Sixties Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian, lone; first ascent on Becca di Seneva E-NE Face; from Gr. Brissogne, L'Arp, Les Laures. July 18th, 1965: Osvaldo Cardellina, Walter Ferronato, Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Luigi Neyroz with Variant under the S-SE Arête (Western Side through several snowfields and first small gullies); in descent. Ascent from Arbolle ancient Alp, E'cho' Loch, Gelato Lake. July 24th, 1966: Ilario Antonio Garzotto, Dario Sergio Cardellina and Walter Ferronato, N Wall of Becca di Nona (Eastern little Couloir with direct exit out to the Summit); in day from Pian Felina Fraction, Reverier, Ponteilles, old Morion Alpage, round trip. June 03th, 1967: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Western Ridge of Becca di Nona, with ascent in day from Pila, Chamolé Alp, Comboé, with diagonal traverse from Plan Valé to the North until reaching the watershed at the promontory 2.686 meters. July 27th, 1967: Aosta's S.M.A. Soldier Gianni Pais Becher first lone on N Wall ("Left" or "East " Pillar", Crétier/Binel Route of August 21th, 1927), in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill with bivouac in Baron Beck Peckoz old Hunting Shelter/West Arpisson's Glacier. August 02th, 1967: Osvaldo Cardellina and Massimo Centelleghe La Dent (2.736m) de la Becca di Nona (3.142m); frirst absolute ascent in day from Pila, Chamolé Alp, Lower Comboé, old Morion Alp, Western Slope and Southern Crest in the final part. August 03th, 1967: Osvaldo Cardellina and Massimo Centelleghe, Becca di Nona N-NE Ridge (Variant on East Edge into the rocky initial plaque with various variations into East Face after the Great Tower 2.998m)); in ascent in two days from Pila, Low Comboé, Morion Alp. June 22th, 1968: Osvaldo Cardellina and Renzo Botti with Variant on S Slope and S-SE Arête (Western Side, from the final part just below the Top up to the rocky spur at the base, completely just under the thread of ridge), in descent to Lago Gelato; ascent in day from Pila. October 06th, 1968: Osvaldo Cardellina and Riccardo Botti, Becca di Seneva W Wall (left route): in day from Pian Felina (569m), Reverier, Ponteilles, Comboé, Plan Valé, Gros Scez, Carrel Pass, crossing Arpisson Glaciers under North Walls of Monte Emilius, Black Triangle. October 13th, 1968: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, first S Éperon of Little Emilius and W Arête, in ascent and in day after the ascent/descent on S-SE Crest of Monte Emilius with Marco Ceccarelli and Armando Poli, from Pila/Chamolé Pass, Arbolle Vallon/Boulders's Ponds. July 10th, 1969: Osvaldo Cardellina and Bruno Pagliarin, in ascent in day from Pila, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Lower Comboé Pasture, Morion Alp; new via on N Wall of Becca di Nona (Eastern Side of East Pillar and exit out to the left on N-NE "Crestone" in terminal sector). July 18th, 1969: Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Renato Quendoz E Wall (new route or "Right Via"); ascent in day from Ménabreaz Refuge. July 24th, 1969: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, first ascent of Northern and Southern (3242/50, 3238/45 meters about) Emilius's Three Capuchins, after the descent from Monte Emilius S-SE Crest with Renzo Botti, Riccardo Botti and Riccardo Camandona; in day from Pila. August 24th, 1969: Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Osvaldo Cardellina, in ascent in day from Hamlets of Gorres-Saint Salò, Ponteilles Pasture, Morion old Alp (ruins); new via in N-NE Ridge of Becca di Nona (integral edge on the thread of watewrshed). June 26th, 1970: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; W-NW Ridge (Integral) of Becca di Nona; in day from Pila, Chamolé, Lower Comboé Pastures. September 27th, 1970: Renato Quendoz and Giuseppe "Pino" Trevisan North Wall (new route on "Right Pillar" or "Western Pillar"), new route in right, and W Crest in final part, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill with bivouac in Peckoz Shelter/Arpisson Western Glacier. September 30th, 1971: Guido Matteotti E Wall lower and middle parts in respect to June 26th, 1935 Route, with diagonal ascent to the right or N-NW towards the superior part of N Edge, new route, in ascent and in day from Ernesto Ménabreaz Hut/Blantsette Glacier. Aug 04th, 1974: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato SW Buttress and W Arête (Trident of Comboé-Col de Comboé-Punte del Lago Gelato-Col Ròss-Mont Ròss de Comboé-Piccolo Emilius and W Ridge); in day from Pila, Chamolé Lake and Col/Arbolle Vallon. August 16th, 1975: Charvensod's Mountaineer Ezio Donzel E Wall, new or "Left Direct Route", in South respect to Gervasutti - Chabod Route of June 26th, 1935, in ascent in day from Ménabreaz Shelter/Blantsette moraine and superior Blantsette Glacier. July 11th, 1977: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato W Slope of Ròss Pass, S-SW Arête on Mont Ròss of Comboé (about 3.285/3.301m); and W Crest through Little Emilius (3.342m); in day from Pila, Chamolé Alpage, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Comboé, Gros Scez. December 23th, 1977: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato, first winter on S-SW Slope (Alternative Standard Route); in day from Pila, Colle Plan Fenêtre, Comboé Vallon, Plan Valé, Gros Scez. In descent same route towards Comboé and Pila Resort. July 17th, 1978: Osvaldo Cardellina, Camillo Roberto Ferronato and Giuseppe Lamazzi Becca di Nona E Face (Right Route double Variant into the Southern Sector, after a try in the same day more to the left); in ascent in day from Martsaouchy du Meitin, Arpisson two Alps. September 24th, 1978: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato new route on Becca di Nona N Wall (little rocky rib under the triangular snowfield and N-NE "Crestone" in final part); in day from Pila, Col Plan Fenétre, Comboé Pasture and Morion Alpages. August 31th, 1980: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato North Wall "Direct Via", new route in left by Binel - Chabod - Crétier of August 16th, 1926 and Binel - Crétier Routes August 21th, 1927, in ascent in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/Arpisson's West Glacier. July 23th, 1983: Alfredo Grappein, Dante Bibois and Ettore Grappein first repetition on Black Triangle of Bozzetti - Rosset Route of September 1960, in ascent from Col Carrel, Western, Eastern Arpisson Glaciers with bivouac on a detrital cone near Arpisson mini Pond. Summer 1983: Roberto Arbaney and Danilo Chatrian first repetition on "Right Pillar" also "Western Pillar" of Quendoz - Trevisan Route of September 27th, 1970, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/ Grand Sax/Carrel Hill/old Peckoz Bivouac/Western Arpisson's Glacier. July 08th, 1984: Osvaldo Cardellina first S-SW Slope through the Southern "Little Couloir", new route, in ascent and in day from Pila/Chamolé Col/Arbolle/Frozen Lake; in descent S-SE Ridge or Standard Route towards Lago Gelato and Arbolle Vallon. July 28th, 1984: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Sandrino "Lupetto" Casalegno and Maurizio Castellan North Wall "Superdirect Via", new route in left by the "Directb Route" of August 31th, 1980, in ascent in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/Arpisson's Western Glacier. In descent Eastern Ridge or "Brissogne's Crest" to Blantsette, Glacier, Col and Testa with traverse on Eastern and Western Arpisson Glacier towards Federigo Zullo Bivouac; from this last to Gros Scez, Plan Valé, Comboé Alp, Colle Plan Fenétre, Pila. December 30/31th 1984: Alberto Chéraz and Corrado Framarin North Wall first winter absolute and second repetition (third ascent) of Quendoz - Trevisan Route September 27th, 1970; from Pila/Comboé/Gros Scez/Carrel Hill/Peckoz Bivouac/Western Arpisson's Glacier. June 30th, 1985: Alberto Sciardi N Wall (Central Gully, Falcoz - Mila Route of 1940?) first solo climbing of this face and second absolute lonely into the Northern Face; in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/Gros Scez or Grand Sax/Carrel Hill/Arpisson's Western Glacier. Descent, always lone, through the W-NW Ridge towards Mont Ròss de Comboé (about 3.285/3.301m), Col Ròss (3.091m), Comboé. December 22th, 1985: first winter of N-NE "Crestone" of Becca di Nona, Alberto Sciardi, solo, in ascent from Pila, Low Comboé, Morion. July 04th, 1986: Osvaldo Cardellina and Alessandro Cardellina (10 years old) first absolute on Emilius Central Capuchin (3250/60 meters about) via N Face, after the descent through Monte Emilius S-SE Crest or Normal Route ; in ascent from Pila, Arbolle, Frozen Loch. October 11th, 1986: Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto W-SW "Great Pillar" to the right (East) by Corona - Defey - Comé Route of September 10th, 1875 and Western Crest ("Direct Line to Grey Jump Via"): from Pila, Chamolé Col, Arbolle, Frozen and Boulders's Lochs. 1985 or 1986 or 1987 ?: Carlo Lucianaz N-NE "Crestone" of Becca di Nona and traverse through Arpisson's two Glaciers to Emilius NE Ridge and N Edge in ascent and W-NW Arête in descent. From Charvensod (746 meters !) /Reverier Dessous/Ponteilles/Morion Alp. July 05th, 1988: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, first in ascent and probably first ? repetition of Bozzino with the wife Tina Via (in descent from Monte Emilius through the Western Ridge on September 12th, 1911). From Pila/Chamolé Hill/Arbolle/Boulders Ponds. July 05th, 1988: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, first in twice climbing to M. Emilius through a variant to the right or East in a gorge followed by a diagonal ramp to the NW (in respect to October 11th, 1986 Route or O. Cardellina - D. Garzotto Via), always from Boulders mini Ponds. August 06th, 1988: Osvaldo Cardellina first on SE Wall above High Les Laures Valley; from Pila/Chamolé Col/Arbolle Vallon and with traverse West / East of "Three Capuchins Pass" and subsequent descent up to the beginning of face's base in highest Laures Valley. December 31th, 1988 - January 01th, 1989: Abele Blanc and Carlo Lucianaz first Winter E Wall, from Ménabreaz Shelter nearby the Dessous Lake at the beginning of Laures Vallon, Blantsette's moraine and overlying Glacier, with bivouac just below the Summit. June 10th, 1990: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, first S Spur in left (West) by South "Little Gully" July 1984 and S-SW Slope; in ascent from Pila/Chamolé Pass/Arbolle Valley/Frozen Lake. In descent S-SE Crest or Standard to Three Capuchins Pass, Lago Gelato, Arbolle Vallon. June 14th, 1990: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, S-SW Slope through the "Southern Little Gully or Couloir", with first repetition: it has been done (on ), by with same route, starting always in day from Pila Resort/Chamolé Lake and Col/Arbole Vallon/Lago Gelato. June 17th, 1990: Aldo Cambiolo and Pierluigi Sartore North Wall ("Couloir Fantasma"), icy gully between Black Triangle and "Mammellone Route" Ourla - Tosana of April 1942 and N Edge; in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/East and West Arpisson's Glaciers. September 14th, 1990: Osvaldo Cardellina, lonely ascent on Testa or Mont Blantsette also Becca des Boucs (3.140m) W Wall (right route, direct): in day from Pila, Col Plan Fenêtre, Comboé, Gros Scez, Col Carrel, Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Arpisson Glaciers . June 23th, 1991: Osvaldo Cardellina first? solo on W Arête by Col Ròss and through Mont Ròss de Comboé, Piccolo Emilius; in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé and Western Slope of Róss Pass (3.091m). In descent "Three Capuchins Crest" or S-SE to Arbolle Valley. Years '90: Mountain Guide Marco Champion and various companions, Testa Blantsette N-NE Edge, in descent above Peckoz Pass. July 26th, 1992: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Seneva S-SW Arête (first integral from Peckoz Pass); from Pila, Col Plan Fenêtre, Comboé, Gros Scez, Col Carrel, Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Arpisson Glaciers, Peckoz Pass. In descent Normal Via below the thread. October 04th, 1992: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo Via Corona - Defey - Comé of September 11th, 1875 first? repetition; in day from Pila, Chamolé Col, Arbolle Vallon, Boulders's Lochs. In descent by S-SE Crest to "Three Capuchins Pass", Gelato Lake, Col Ròss (3.081m). May 30th, 1993: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, Becca di Nona, first on Southern rocky Rib with very much snow; from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/fork near Gros Scez. In descent Col Carrel/Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Grand Sax/Plan Valé towards Comboé/Col de Fenêtre/Pila. July 17/18th, 1993: Mountain Guides Aosta's Aldo Cambiolo and Parma's Roberta Vittorangeli with Aosta's mountaineers Roberto Lale and Fabrizio Villanis, Northern Wall of Black Triangle (3.378m) "Direct Route", two tries (two pitches with bad weather in second day) of opening a new direct and central route, both in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers. July 31th, 1993: Mountain Guides Aosta's Parma's Roberta Vittorangeli and Aldo Cambiolo try on Northern Wall of Black Triangle (3.378m) "Direct Route"; in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Gros Scez/Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers. August 01th, 1993: U.V.G.A.M. Aosta's Aldo Cambiolo and Parma's Roberta Vittorangeli, N Wall of Black Triangle (3.378m) "Direct Route", new route and N Edge with bivouac near the Summit of Emilius's Triangle (3.378m), in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers, after a previous tries in the same year with the Aosta's mountaineers Roberto Lale and Fabrizio Villanis and by the same two Guides (by the "Book of Federigo Zullo Bivouac", since September 26th, 1992 until March 18th, 2007, pages 3, 5 and 7). June 19th, 1994: Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; S Slope with Direct Line on S-SW "Ribbing pear-shaped" to the left by "Sinuous Pillar" and in right (East) by Cardellina - Garzotto Via of October 11th, 1986; in day from Pila, Chamolé Col, Arbolle Vallon. June 30th, 1995: Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, NE Pillar and E Arête: (Variant from Blantsette Glacier to "Brissogne Ridge): in ascent from Pila, Comboé, Carrel Hill, Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Arpisson Western and Eastern Glaciers, Testa and Col Blantsette to Blantsette Glacier. August 10th, 1995: Osvaldo Cardellina and Alessandro Cardellina Southern "Rib of double Red Turrets" on Western Ridge (about 3.450/60m) of Monte Emilius just to the left or West by Via Corona - Defey - Comé of September 11th, 1875 and terminal part through the Western Crest; in day, Pila, Chamolé Lake and Col, Arbolle Vallon up to the Boulders's mini Ponds. June 16th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina first W-NW Crest/Eperon of Frozen Loch Points (Punte del Lago Gelato 3113/15m); in descent first route on S-SE Face and crossing to Ròss Pass, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé, and traverse in South before the Gros Scez. June 23th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, Becca di Nona, first repetition on Southern rocky Rib in a violent storm and with very much snow; from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/fork near Gros Scez. In descent Col Carrel/Federigo Bivouac towards Comboé/Col de Fenêtre/Pila. July 04th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; new route on East Face of Becca di Nona (Left Route into the Southern Sector); from Federigo Zullo Boivouac after descent from the Top through E-NE Ridge and in ascent after traverse in North from small fork about 2.880 meters. July 12th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina Ines Alasonatti and Giuseppe Lamazzi, Becca di Nona N Wall (Western Side of East Pillar), new route into East side with ascent in day from Ponteilles, Morion Alp; in descent to Federigo Zullo Bivouac, Gros Scez, Comboé, Ponteilles. July 23th, 1996: Osvaldo Cardellina with Giulio De Ceglie (this last Normal Via), Becca di Nona, second repetition on Southern rocky Rib; from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé/fork near Gros Scez. In descent Col Carrel/Federigo Zullo Bivouac towards Comboé/Col de Fenêtre/Pila. July 1998: Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina second lonely climbing on N Wall through "Left Pillar" or East Pillar" (Binel - Crétier Route of August 21th, 1927) and 3° absolute solitary climbing of North Wall, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill Western Arpisson Glacier. August 09th, 1998: Osvaldo Cardellina N Wall first on "Right Gully", new route to the right (West) by Quendoz - Trevisan Via of September 27th, 1970 Via and fourth absolute lonely climbing of wall; in ascent and in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Pass/Western Arpisson Glacier. June 06th, 1999: Osvaldo Cardellina first W Wall of Mont Ròss de Comboé (3.285/3.301m) and traverse to Little or Piccolo Emilius, in ascent from Pila/Colle Plan Fenêtre (2.221/29m)/Comboé/Plan Valé and crossing before the squared boulder of Gros Scez (2526m). June 27th, 1999: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Becca di Nona N Wall first and Direct Via on Central Couloir (between the two great twins spurs of 1920 and 1940 old routes); in ascent in day from Les Pousses, Ponteilles, Lower Comboé, old Morion Alp (ruines). |