Normal Route

Approach

The route starts right at the Hut Jose Rivas. The ascent route goes to your left, facing the mountain, while a path on the right is for the descent.

Route Description

Climb the path of the left of the refuge, and you will see that it zigs-zags on this scree/sand slope. After one hour or about 5100 mts you will gain the glacier. Rope up and start going up, following the well marked path to the top. The slope is steep at the beggining, but easies up higher. The path may be well marked, as this is one of the most climbed mountains in Ecuador. If this is not the case, you will be walking the left (facing the mountain) side of a gentle snow ridge, negitiating crevasses and other ice cliffs.

The route changes from one year to the next, as the glacier keeps moving and changing. You need to cross some scary some but safe crevasses. You will aim to the left side of a rock band called Yanasasha (4 hours from hut), where, in January 2003, was an ice cave. From here the route is very exposed to wind, so protect your self if the conditions are harsh. The route will go from Yanasasha straight and turning left to the summit slope, and then climb it on steep terrain to the your left. 45 minutes after Yanasasha you will find a huge rimaye. Go to the left of it and climb it on ice and snow, and the head up for other 45 minutes to the summit. Some seasons climbers attach ladders to pass this obstacle. Keep and eye in the way down, so you can see some of the old ladders that now are unreachable due to glacier movement.

Descent is the same.

Essential Gear

Glaciar travel gear. Figure out how to climb the final rimaye before you commit to it. It may help to have a couple of screws and a picket.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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