North East Ridge

Approach

Walk in along the main path to Cathedral Peak. The route forms the right hand skyline of the peak when viewed from the traverse between the top of Orange Peel Gap and Bugger Gully. Walk up Bugger Gully to a grassy shoulder at a point where the gully steepens significantly and becomes very eroded. This is about 50m below the nek between the main peak and the gendarme on the left.

Route Description

Walk a couple of hundred metres to the right along a very broad grass ledge to reach the north east ridge which forms the right hand skyline.

Scramble straight up the crest of north east ridge through a series of rock bands alternating with grass ledges. This involves about 200m of C grade scrambling, with the odd D move, and leads to a point where the overall gradient steepens sharply. From here a 20m C grade scramble leads to a smooth, rounded ramp of about 5m. Belay at the start of the scramble because there is no belay to be found on the ramp. The ramp ends in a short, vertical rock band which is climbed on its right (crux). This is about D grade with one or two E grade moves and is very exposed. Further C grade scrambling with the odd D move, leads straight up the ridge to the summit.

Essential Gear

Normal day gear. A rope may be necessary

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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