Hua Shan

Generally

Hua Shan, AKA "Huashan" means "flowery mountain" in Mandarin Chinese because its five peaks are supposed to resemble a lotus flower. Located in Central China's Yellow River basin, Hua Shan is the Westernmost of the five mountains that are sacred to Chinese Taoists. Although the trip to the summit is not much more than a challenging hike (aided in part by chains embedded in and steps carved into the mountain) the five granite peaks are majestic and a startling contrast to the yellow soil plains that lie below.

Although mostly a tourist destination today, the mountain still contains the ruins of numerous temples, and plentiful engravings in the rock of the moutain.

Getting There

From Xi'an
Most trips to Hua Shan begin in Xi'an. The easiest method to reach Hua Shan is to the take one of the many commercial buses from the station in Xi'an--I believe that numbers 1 and 2 will both work. The trip takes about 2 hours, and will leave you at Hua Shan village at the base of the mountain. From the village it is a 20 minute hike or a cheap shuttle ride to the trailhead.

Another option is to take the train from Xi'an toward Luoyang, which I'm told stops near Hua Shan, or to take the commuter train to Menyuan, which is about 20 km from the Village of Hua Shan. I have not tried either of these options, and I'm not sure what the advantage would be over the buses.

From Luoyang
Take the train toward Xi'an, getting off at the Hua Shan stop. Note that some trains might not make this stop. I suspect that one could arrange for a bus or hire a driver from Luoyang as well, but I have not done so.

Red Tape

Perhaps unfortunately, there is none that I'm aware of. I say "unfortunately" because free access to the mountain has led to an explosion of hikers and climbers, and to a proliferation of food and beverage vendors along the route (particularly between the base and the first peak (North Peak)). Those who enjoyed an ice cold coke on the way up Mount Fuji will find similar comforts here--although it is more likely to be green tea.

It is somewhat interesting to watch the men who carry supplies to these concessionaires. They typically balance their load across a plank, which rests on their shoulder. Observing someone carrying a couple of bags of concrete and several cases of beverages in this fashion is a nice way to gain some appreciation for the expensive technical gear that most climbers carry.

Camping

There are no good camping places along the route, and campers near the trail are likely to be awoken by night climbers hoping to catch the sunrise from the summit. A better option might be a late trip up and an overnight at the summit (some friends did this in August using a tarp, and experienced no problems). Whether this is officially permitted is beyond me.

There are also several cheap places in the village with dorm beds that you can pick up for a couple of dollars US. These are simple affairs, so bring your sleeping bag.

Overnighting on or near the mountain really makes sense only if you intend to catch the sunrise from the summit.

Routes, Crowds, and Cable Cars

From the trailhead it is also possible to take a scary cable car, which rises roughly 1500 feet to another point on the trail. The vast majority of Chinese visitors seem to take the cable car, and you might have no choice if you have a bus to catch.

If, like me, you are accustomed to traveling solo or in small groups, the crowds marching up the mountain can be fairly distressing. The good news is that 99% of these hikers never venture past the first (North) peak. After that you are likely to have the trail (mostly) to yourself.

After the first peak, the trail continues in a loop (with small branches for summit sections) hitting each of the five summits. If you do the entire circuit, expect a commitment of about six hours. (I suggest that you budget more time, however, in case you are caught up in the crowds below. There are places where passing is impossible, and moving at a snail's pace is common).

Weather

This trip is usually done in late summer, when the weather is typically mild (if a little humid) with chilly, misty nights.

The views from the summit are supposedly fairly stunning, but climbers are lucky if they have a clear view of the neighboring summits. This often is not due to cloud cover, it's actually SMOG from nearby coal-fired power plants. Welcome to the new China.



Nonetheless, a worthwhile day trip (or perhaps two days, if you want to catch sunrise) from Xi'an or Luoyang.

Images

View Hua Shan Image Gallery - 25 Images