Alois Smrz at the top of the...

Alois Smrz at the top of the...

Alois Smrz at the top of the North Couloir of Mt. Gilbert, California's High Sierra. August 2000 Photo:Michael Gordon/Alois Smrz archives.

asmrz
on May 6, 2003 1:47 pm
Image ID: 20256

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Craig Peer

Craig Peer - May 6, 2003 3:34 pm - Hasn't voted

You Da Man!

Great shot on Gilbert Alois - you da man!!

asmrz

asmrz - May 7, 2003 11:33 am - Hasn't voted

Re: You Da Man!

Isn't this one cool gully? I have done it now at least 4-5 times and can never get enough of the South Lake scenery, hiking up the Treasure Lakes drainage and over the moraine to Gilbert. This is something to do every year just for practice. How are you my friend?

Cheers, Alois.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - May 7, 2003 12:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: You Da Man!

I'm good. Every year? Wow. I led an A3- pitch last weekend. I'm inching closer to my first big wall in 17 years!

John

John - May 6, 2003 8:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Sweet Shot!

Looks like you're having fun Alois! Do you have any photos of the 5.6 portion above the couloir? I'm thinking of doing this climb later this year.

asmrz

asmrz - May 7, 2003 7:24 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Sweet Shot!

John, There is NO 5.6 section above the couloir. Follow this: From the notch at the top of the Couloir, drop down about forty feet to the other side of the notch, traverse left (facing down) into a distinct corner and climb up for about 180-200 feet to the top of Gilbert. This is 4th class, no rope is needed. The Guidebooks just perpetuate the 5.6 myth.

Cheers and good climbing, Alois.

John

John - May 7, 2003 10:43 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Sweet Shot!

Alois, Thanks for the beta! I've been curious about this part of the climb for a while and it's great to finally have some detailed information. Also just saw your excellent photo Michael Gordon in the Moynier Couloir. Thanks for sharing. John.

PellucidWombat

PellucidWombat - Dec 16, 2005 9:31 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Sweet Shot!

actually, there is a 5.6 portion, but only if you climb up the chimney that ends directly above the saddle. The 5.6 portion is nothing more than a short crack, though.

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