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Vrachokipos & Lelaki climbing areas

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Attiki, Greece, Europe

Lat/Lon: 37.95000°N / 23.81000°E

Object Title: Vrachokipos & Lelaki climbing areas

Route Type: Sport climbing routes

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 6a+ to 7b+ (French)

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Nikolas_A

Created/Edited: Feb 21, 2004 / Sep 1, 2008

Object ID: 160122

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Approach

From the town of Koropi (near the airport) follow the road signs towards the "Kekropia" theater. Passing in front of the theater continue straight (the road becomes unpaved after 1km). Continue on the dirt road (disregarding even smaller roads that cross it) until you reach a plateau. Park and descend following right marks to the right (for Lelaki) or left (for Vrachokipos)

Routes Overview

Vrachokipos ( = Rockgarden) and Lelaki are the opposite sides of a U-shaped cliff west of the Stavros saddle. They are sport crags, bolted with 10mm stainless bolts. Routes 40, 41, 43 and 45-47 have intermidiate belay anchors too, so they can be climbed halfway up (also on these routes a 60m is marginally enough to lower the leader, so one may use the intermidiate anchor to rappel). The route names are written on the rock and the numbers are in sequence to the ones on Sesi. The routes are graded based on the French system, which is getting the standard for sport routes in Greece.

Lelaki faces East and Vrachokipos West, so in a hot summer day you can climb all day in the shade. In the winter the area is protected by the prominent north winds, so it should be preferred over Sesi. The rock is bomber, overhanging limestone with stalactitic formations. The view, especially from Vrachokipos, is fantastic.

Lelaki
Nr. Name Grade (French) Height (m)
37 Evridiki 6c 20
38 Project ? ?
39 Project ? ?
40 Agriolouloudo 7b+ 15 (+15 6b)
41 Gata tou Siam 7a+ 18 (+10 6b on loose rock)
42 Alepou 6c+ 28
43 Prasino Pepromeno 6c 20 (+10 6a+)
44 Artemis 6b+ 28
45 Imittos 6a 15 (or 30m 6b)
46 G. Lelakis 6a+ 15 (or 30m 6b+)
47 Ogigis 6a+ 15 (or 30m 6b+)


Vrachokipos
Nr. Name Grade (French) Height (m)
48 Stramonio 6b 30
49 Datoura 7a 30
50 Titanida 7c+ 30
51 Evelina 7c 25
52 Gerakina 7b 30
53 Agrielia 7a+ 28
54 Kapari 7a 30

Essential Gear

60m single rope, 15 quickdraws.