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Waclawy

 
Waclawy

Page Type: Route

Location: Tatra Mountains, Poland, Europe

Object Title: Waclawy

Route Type: Classic Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: VI+ or VII+

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: abcd17

Created/Edited: Jun 4, 2005 / Jun 4, 2005

Object ID: 165340

Hits: 1801 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


Start from Morskie Oko shelter. Take a trail leading to Szpiglasowa Przelecz (Szpiglasowa Pass). When the trail divides into two - take left leading to Wrota Chalubinskiego (Chalubinski Gate) and after approx. 50 meters leave tourist track and turn left taking narrow path heading to Mnich which is well seen during almost the whole approach.

Route Description


The 4 pitches long route on a north-west side of a Mnich, first climbed by M. Pawelczyk, M. Tertelis and W. Wenta in 1995. Consists of a two parts - first three pitches long called "Zemsta Waclawa" (VI+/6a) and the second part, one pitch long "Waclaw Spituje' (VII+/6c) reaching the summit. The parts can be climbed together or separatelly, according to the party's abilities and strength. The whole route takes 2-2.5 hour to climb. Beautiful slab climbing with a crux - an overhang at the first part of a last pitch ('Waclaw Spituje'). Equipped with 37 bolts.

Essential Gear


Set of 12 quickdraws will do fine. Single 50 m. rope is OK if you do not plan to rappel before reaching ledges one pitch below the summit. You will also need to descent one pitch (II-III grade) from the top of Mnich and then take a 10 minnutes I-grade down-climb. To avoid it and be able to reach the bottom part quickly when needed - take double rope and get to the base of a wall with 3 rappels from the peak (in-situ rappeling anchors) along the route. See details on two pictures.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

W. Wenta during the first...Mnich North-West face,...