Doesn't the Tooth look ridiculous while your climbing to the summit. Great trip report. I climbed it in 1985 when I was 23, those pictures make me want to go back.
Hey I am planning to do this route hopefully next summer and I was wondering what your assessment of the avalanche risk was? Did you see many big ones while you were up there? My personal risk acceptance regarding avalanches is quite a bit lower than most peoples' who climb the alpine routes I like to do. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks
There is a degree of avalanche danger there year round, it all depends on conditions. As you can see from the pictures is was clear and hot when we were in there, which resulted in afternoon slop. We tried our best to travel early when heading up the Bravo glacier from Sunny Knob, we had one afternoon where we stopped a little early due to isothermal conditions- the pack was warm and didn't have much holding it together. I think a larger slide occurred on the peak next to us one day, can't recall exact details- I felt pretty safe the time we were there, with the exception of that afternoon when we were just below Bravo col. If you use the same mentality you speak of you will be fine, it's BIG terrain in there, well worth the time and effort to go there!
Harryk - Aug 17, 2012 1:12 am - Voted 9/10
Bring back memoriesDoesn't the Tooth look ridiculous while your climbing to the summit. Great trip report. I climbed it in 1985 when I was 23, those pictures make me want to go back.
Matt Lemke - Oct 27, 2014 5:01 pm - Voted 10/10
Big avalanche danger?Hey I am planning to do this route hopefully next summer and I was wondering what your assessment of the avalanche risk was? Did you see many big ones while you were up there? My personal risk acceptance regarding avalanches is quite a bit lower than most peoples' who climb the alpine routes I like to do. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks
hunterslee - Nov 2, 2014 9:53 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Big avalanche danger?There is a degree of avalanche danger there year round, it all depends on conditions. As you can see from the pictures is was clear and hot when we were in there, which resulted in afternoon slop. We tried our best to travel early when heading up the Bravo glacier from Sunny Knob, we had one afternoon where we stopped a little early due to isothermal conditions- the pack was warm and didn't have much holding it together. I think a larger slide occurred on the peak next to us one day, can't recall exact details- I felt pretty safe the time we were there, with the exception of that afternoon when we were just below Bravo col. If you use the same mentality you speak of you will be fine, it's BIG terrain in there, well worth the time and effort to go there!