Description:The Weisshorn 4505m is for me one of the greatest summit in Switzerland and in the whole Alps. (And it is also my 34th 4000er).
Almost a winter ascent in summer: Our tour to the Weisshorn resembled more a "winter ascent" over delicate and fresh snow-covered rocks.
Over night it snowed, there was a lot of fresh snow. In the high mountains is that also often in summer.
When we started in the night at 2.30 o'clock from the Weisshorn hut 2932m, the sky was dark gray and black... Not a good sign and not a motivation,
especially as the weather forecast said good weather and 30 degrees.
Our ascent of the Weisshorn:
From the Weisshorn hut 2932m on a good visible path to the Schali-glacier (Schaligletscher). About this glacier to a rockface and through them, get to climb (UIAA II),
to the "Frühstücksplatz" at point 3914m. The should at daybreak reached! The sky was still dark and it snowed even slightly. Someone called the
weather-service and they said: It is good, it will be better. Ok, let's go. we are further climbed. The east ridge of the Weisshorn was almost
snow-covered as in winter. 20cm of fresh snow that is difficult to climb on a ridge, where climbing difficulty level is UIAA III. The sticking point ist the Lochmatter-tower
(Lochmatterturm), there are rock-ledge in the III-IV UIAA level. We climbed careful with crampon over the snow-covered rocks, a tricky thing. And finally, the weather
was actually better and we reached the summit of the Weisshorn 4506m. Hurrah! We have done it and we have not abandoned.
With the Weisshorn climb i have finished a "ascent-trilogy" of the three most beautiful summit of Switzerland (perhaps of the whole Alps):
Matterhorn 4478m - Weisshorn 4506m - Bietschhorn 3934m.
> Route: Weisshorn hut 2932m (SAC Basel) - Schali glacier - Wasserloch - Frühstücksplatz 3914m - east ridge - Weisshorn - Randa 1408m.
> Difficulty: ZS (AD) / III, Route 376.
> Time required: 7-9 hours for the ascent.
> Guide book: "Hochtouren im Wallis" from Hermann Biner or "Clubführer Walliser Alpen No.3 vom Col Collon zum Theodulpass" from Maurice Brandt.
> Our ascent to Weisshorn 4506m: Link to the Weisshorn trip
Written and climbed by Cyrill
If you have any question, do not hesitate to contact me: [email protected]