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West Route

 
West Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 48.51920°N / 120.6166°W

Object Title: West Route

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.5 (YDS)

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni

Created/Edited: Mar 27, 2005 / Oct 11, 2009

Object ID: 164452

Hits: 2604 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Overview

 
Big Kangaroo
Big Kangaroo from the SW.




The West Route on Big Kangaroo involves a very long steep approach with over 3,000 feet of vertical to a very short climb of three short pitches - perhaps in the range of 150 feet of actual climbing.

Were I to do it again, I would certainly do it in the spring with skis so as to enjoy the long descent back to the hairpin.




Approach

 
Big Kangaroo from the west (Telephoto)
Big Kangaroo from the west late season.
Big Kangaroo from the west
Big Kangaroo from the west early season.







With no snow, approach as per the description on the main page.

With plenty of snow, one can ascend more or less directly from the hairpin curve to the base of the rock, keeping in mind the potential for avalanche.







Route Description

Ascend the gully to the base of the main summit block then take the left branch to the base of the rock. A short pitch on rotten rock (marginally Class 5) leads to the crest just to the north of the summit pinnacle.

A short traverse (exposed and on small holds - well protected) across the west face of the summit pinnacle leads to a belay ledge on the southwest corner of the pinnacle.

The last lead to the summit follows the south edge of the pinnacle to the tiny summit. This is almost impossible to protect and involves small holds and friction, but it is very short.
 
West face traverse - Big Kangaroo
Traverse pitch
 
Summit pinnacle - Big Kangaroo
Last bit to the summit
 
Belaying the summit pitch.<br>Big Kangaroo
Summit Belay



Essential Gear

A small rack and a 50 m. rope.












Images

Big KangarooBig Kangaroo from the west.