I found nuts and hexes to be pretty useless on this climb. Having a lot of cams of various sizes can be helpful for setting marginal pro in flaring cracks or making anchor belays in the wide cracks along the dihedrals and roofs.
If you head directly up the smooth face just to the right of the chute that heads up from the slab's lowest point, you can reach a tree with slings (5.4, ca. 160 ft).
From here, if you head to the dihedral to the right, it offers more place for pro and has a level spot for a gear anchor. (5.5)
Above this is the large ledge with a huge tree that makes a nice belay ledge (5.5 left of the dihedral, 3rd class on top of the dihedral). I never saw the aforementioned bolts here.
Beyond this is a large open face that likely requires a little simul-climbing (5.4 to easy 4th). If you can reach the roof above, there is a tree growing out of it that has some rap slings and makes a good anchor.
Heading up and left w/ a little simul-climbing (cl. 4) is another good belay ledge w/ a good tree anchor.
Beyond this we pretty much simul-climbed & free soloed the slab.
From the top of the west slab, scramble east up the ridge (fun cl. 3-4) until you meet up with the West Ridge route. From here you can either descend the ridge, descend the North Face Trail or climb to the north summit, from where you can traverse to the south summit and descend the main trail.
I came across a huge beehive today at the base of the West Slabs Route (right where the hiking stops and the climbing begins). Luckily I had come up the left side of the snow and the beehive was on the right (west side) of the base of the rock. Be careful, I've never seen or heard such a giant beehive before, yikes!
Previously you used to have to skirt though a neighborhood. As of last year theres a trailhead for the Bonneville shore line trail. Go up this a little ways and the trails will split. Head east or left.
http://www.utahoutside.com/2013/11/hiking-the-new-thousand-oaks-section-of-the-bonneville-shoreline-trail/
agentkirkwood - May 18, 2020 10:55 am - Hasn't voted
Free Soloing the West Slabs
Mid May, 2020: Free solo'd this route with a group of 6, 1 whom was experienced with the approach to SL Valley's crown jewel. I want to comment about our great experience simply because I was not able to find much information online regarding free solo-ing The West Slabs without belays or rappels. One should seriously consider whether taking on this risk is appropriate for them self. There were moments that my group termed "spicy" during which, despite the easy climbing moves, a mistake would likely be fatal. Be mindful of the risks. If you have plenty of experience climbing harder routes roped up, the West Slabs will feel okay. If this makes you uncomfortable find someone to guide you up with ropes or simply find another of the Wasatch's infinite possible adventures.
Also, wear a helmet! The rock was mobile up there. And, simple shoe chains worked well on the snow in the approach gully, in lieu of full crampons.
PellucidWombat - Jun 6, 2005 11:39 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI found nuts and hexes to be pretty useless on this climb. Having a lot of cams of various sizes can be helpful for setting marginal pro in flaring cracks or making anchor belays in the wide cracks along the dihedrals and roofs.
PellucidWombat - Jun 6, 2005 11:41 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThere is now a set of railroad tie stairs leading from the road up to the climbers trail.
The climbers trail drops down and follows a fence for a short ways before merging with the abandoned dirt road.
For early season ascents, an ice axe is recommened as the snow in the approach gulley is very hardpacked and can last most of the summer.
PellucidWombat - Jun 6, 2005 11:48 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentIf you head directly up the smooth face just to the right of the chute that heads up from the slab's lowest point, you can reach a tree with slings (5.4, ca. 160 ft).
From here, if you head to the dihedral to the right, it offers more place for pro and has a level spot for a gear anchor. (5.5)
Above this is the large ledge with a huge tree that makes a nice belay ledge (5.5 left of the dihedral, 3rd class on top of the dihedral). I never saw the aforementioned bolts here.
Beyond this is a large open face that likely requires a little simul-climbing (5.4 to easy 4th). If you can reach the roof above, there is a tree growing out of it that has some rap slings and makes a good anchor.
Heading up and left w/ a little simul-climbing (cl. 4) is another good belay ledge w/ a good tree anchor.
Beyond this we pretty much simul-climbed & free soloed the slab.
PellucidWombat - Jun 6, 2005 2:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentFrom the top of the west slab, scramble east up the ridge (fun cl. 3-4) until you meet up with the West Ridge route. From here you can either descend the ridge, descend the North Face Trail or climb to the north summit, from where you can traverse to the south summit and descend the main trail.
stewart13 - Jun 17, 2013 8:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Beehive at base of West SlabsI came across a huge beehive today at the base of the West Slabs Route (right where the hiking stops and the climbing begins). Luckily I had come up the left side of the snow and the beehive was on the right (west side) of the base of the rock. Be careful, I've never seen or heard such a giant beehive before, yikes!
Trelle - Sep 18, 2018 9:56 am - Hasn't voted
Different trailheadPreviously you used to have to skirt though a neighborhood. As of last year theres a trailhead for the Bonneville shore line trail. Go up this a little ways and the trails will split. Head east or left.
http://www.utahoutside.com/2013/11/hiking-the-new-thousand-oaks-section-of-the-bonneville-shoreline-trail/
agentkirkwood - May 18, 2020 10:55 am - Hasn't voted
Free Soloing the West SlabsMid May, 2020: Free solo'd this route with a group of 6, 1 whom was experienced with the approach to SL Valley's crown jewel. I want to comment about our great experience simply because I was not able to find much information online regarding free solo-ing The West Slabs without belays or rappels. One should seriously consider whether taking on this risk is appropriate for them self. There were moments that my group termed "spicy" during which, despite the easy climbing moves, a mistake would likely be fatal. Be mindful of the risks. If you have plenty of experience climbing harder routes roped up, the West Slabs will feel okay. If this makes you uncomfortable find someone to guide you up with ropes or simply find another of the Wasatch's infinite possible adventures.
Also, wear a helmet! The rock was mobile up there. And, simple shoe chains worked well on the snow in the approach gully, in lieu of full crampons.