Scenic route up with a stop at a spectacular high camp overlooking the entire Whitney Glacier before a planned bivy on the summit, then down the Hotlum-Bolam ridge. Snow free until we reached the ridge at around 9600 feet, then a choice between snow and rock until 12000 feet when the route became all talus.
Weather was fantastic the first two days, then a storm came in and we left the summit camp at about 4:00 AM. Impressed to see a couple parties ascend in poor weather in the middle of the night to get in ahead of the worst of the storm.
Also used this route as a descent route in October 2012 following a trip up the Bolam Glacier. Had a whiteout on the way to camp but clear skies the next day... splendid conditions and a great time of year to go! Didn't see anyone else anywhere on the mountain.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."