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Wilde Leck
Mountain/Rock

Wilde Leck

 
Wilde Leck

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tyrol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.00280°N / 11.06190°E

Object Title: Wilde Leck

Elevation: 11027 ft / 3361 m

 

Page By: JoPo

Created/Edited: Jan 9, 2003 / Nov 27, 2005

Object ID: 151424

Hits: 8830 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview


The 11th highest mountain in the Stubai mountain range. A significant mountain which can be seen from all over the surrounding area. It is a mountain with no easy ascent, the easiest one (normal route) is UIAA grade III. All ascents are partly glacial routes. Though it is possibly the mountain with the most difficult normal route in the vicinity, it is - as given in the "Alpenvereinsführer" - frequently visited.

Getting There


The mountain is usually approached from either the Amberger Hütte or the Hochstubaihütte (both from the Ötztal). A further ascent starts at the Stubai cable car.

Via the Amberger Hütte:
Start in the Sulztal (goes from the Ötztal) to the Amberger Hütte (2 h). From there towards the Sulztalferner and the Wilde-Leck-Ferner to the red marked climbing route.

Via the Hochstubai Hütte:
Start in Sölden to the Hochstubai Hütte (6 h). From there to the Wütenkarsattel, down the Sulztalferner and into the Wilde Leck Ferner to the red marked climbing route.

The normal route (UIAA grade III) is red marked (1.5 h) and goes along the east ridge. No bolts are in the route.
Further routes are the direct east ridge (III-IV) the westridge (III) and the north ridge (III).
Descent is possible through the south wall (I).

When To Climb


Summer: June - October
Winter: March - April (Ski ascent - please note: skis can be used only for the approach - climbing is essential; I do *not* know whether climbing is possible in winter or spring )

Guides and Maps


The recommended guide is the "Alpenvereinsführer" "Stubaier Alpen" by Walter Klier (Bergverlag Rother, 2002)
ISBN: 3-7633-1271-4 (Description)

A detailed map is available from the Alpenverein (Stubaier Alpen - Hochstubai - 31/1 1: 25000)
This map is available with or without routes for ski mountaineering (Description).

A good map is sold by freytag & berndt (Innsbruck, Stubai - Seelrain, Brenner 1:50000, WK241).
(Description)

A guide describing the climbing routes is written by Andreas Orgler: STUBAIER ALPEN - Fels & Eis

Mountain Conditions


Mountain conditions are available from the huts in the vicinity.

Winter climbing: Propability of avalanges can been found here: Lawinenwarndienst - Österreich

Information of alpine weather is found here: Wetter

Huts in the Vicinity


General Information on huts is given in Jo's Hüttenliste

Amberger Hütte: 2135 m, Tel.: +(A) 05253 / 5605 (open end of Feb. - 15. May and beginn of July - 15. Sept.)
They have a homepage: Amberger Hütte

Hochstubaihütte: 3173 m, Tel.: +(A) 05254 / 3240 and 0664 / 3587637 (1. July - 15. Sept.)
They have a homepage: Hochstubaihütte

Red Tape


No fees, no closures.

Camping


The whole area is a "Naturschutzgebiet " (similar to a national park) which prohibits camping, possibly bivouaking is allowed (at least tolerated). Sleeping is of course possible in the surrounding huts.
Camping is possible in Volderau (some kilometers from Neustift in the Stubaital)and in the Ötztal in Längenfeld (30 km from Vent) (Homepage)
Further camping sites might be in Sölden (15 km from Vent) and Huben (20 km from Vent) in the Ötztal.

First Ascent - Historical Facts


First ascent by Zachäus Grüner from Sölden about 1865. First touristic approach by F. Drasch, L. Purtscheller and Qu. Gritsch at 1. Sept. 1877 from SO.

External Links

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-3 of 3    
JoPoUntitled Comment

JoPo

Hasn't voted

Tnak you for the additional information.


JoPo
Posted Jan 14, 2003 5:26 am
Mathias ZehringUntitled Comment

Mathias Zehring

Voted 10/10

Hi JoPo,


I have only some small additions to make:


- the Stubai Alps are no National Park (like Yellowstone, Hohe Tauern etc)


- Wilde Leck has probably the most difficult normal route of the mountains of the area. Is it really "frequently visited"?


- Link to the map 1:25000 AV-Karte Hochstubai is http://www.dav-lifealpin.de/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=13801&NextPage=%2FProductTree%2Easp%3FCategoryID%3D3923%26PPP%3D%26SP%3D0


- ski can only be used for the approach. This can only make sense in late spring if the rocks are free of snow


- you should tell what gear is necessary. Are there bolts? An extra route would be nice.


Mathias
Posted Jan 11, 2003 1:01 am
JoPoUntitled Comment

JoPo

Hasn't voted

Tnak you for the additional information.


JoPo
Posted Jan 14, 2003 5:26 am

Viewing: 1-3 of 3    

Images

Sulztalferner glacier and Wilde LeckView from the Hinterer...Wilde Leck seen from NNW from...The Wilde Leck, summer 2003,...Me under the last part to the...A nice part of the eastridge...Looking up the eastridge,...
On the eastridge, summer 2003Close under the Southwall,...Wilde Leck seen from SE. The...Wilde Leck seen from the east...