Joe and I did an overnight on Lone Peak a few weeks ago. We were just a few feet from the summit but chose to head down because the sun was going down. So that is some unfinished business for us. i plan to get out as much as possible as Winter turns to Spring. Be sure to let us know if/when you come out here.
I won't be out there this winter season, but I do hope to finish off a Timpanogos Massif Traverse in winter one of these days. BF Twins-Cottonwood Ridge or Cascade Pk-Provo Pk Massif Traverse could also be nice.
I believe "full ridge ascents" in the Sierra must start at the terminus of the ridge at the fault scarp in the sagebrush i.e. east of the summit of Magic McGee...(or better style would be to ascend first the Rowell route on the north side then link to over to East Ridge)...just going with stylistic precedence of our beloved range :)
oh, but if you climb over another named peak, then isn't it a "ridge traverse" or "linkup" rather than a "ridge ascent"? ;-) Although the idea of going over McGee as part of the ridge has occurred to me . . . :-)
You could do a nice horseshoe up McGee (maybe up the sweet looking couloir on the NW side?), do the East Ridge, then descend the North Ridge. Probably more of a 2.5-3 day climb from base camp in winter, though, or a lot more climbing in the dark.
Thank you guys, good TR. What a classic Sierra ridge climb and how wonderful to do it in winter. Great photos,you took care to describe it all very well.Cheers and good climbing, Alois.
Thanks Alois. Doing it in winter sure made it a more interesting climb. I've been aiming to do that for other easier climbs to make them more memorable. Plus you can't beat the ambiance!
Thanks! It's a route well worth doing. Just make sure to do the whole thing - I think the climbing is best on the lower half, and the absolute best is going over the gendarme.
ExcitableBoy - Mar 6, 2011 10:27 am - Hasn't voted
Very nice.
Incredibly well done trip report. Nicely done. One question: Is this a pretty typical approach length/elevation gain for winter routes in the Sierras?
Actually it's on the shorter end unless you're doing one of the mega-ridge routes or one of the other peaks that drops straight into the Owens Valley, at which point you pretty much just start from the valley. This approach is just extra tedious since you start way out in the valley.
However, a lot of the approaches are very worthwhile doing in skis. When we went up to the Petit Grepon skis made the whole excursion much faster! That approach was about 3,000 ft and 9 miles each way.
Scott Pierce - Mar 6, 2011 10:42 pm - Hasn't voted
GREAT TRIP REPORT
Way, way excellent. Awesome climb, and cool report. What led you to choosing Humphreys? Keep it up.
Thanks! I chose the peak, the route, and the timing for a number of reasons. The peak is definitely an attention-getter when you pass through Bishop or climb neighboring peaks. The route is listed in several recommended lists as a good climb, though sadly it is hard to see from the valley so you wouldn't be as drawn to the route otherwise. Since the rating is easy enough compared to what I could lead on a route in summer and in rock shoes, I figured it could be good for a winter ascent. I always like to find ways to make routes more memorable in one way or another :-)
Matthew Van Horn - Feb 28, 2011 3:12 pm - Voted 10/10
Friggin' awesomeNow that is some adventurous climbing.
PellucidWombat - Feb 28, 2011 10:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Friggin' awesomeThanks! Have you been doing any adventurin' in Utah? I have some unfinished business there for winter climbs.
Matthew Van Horn - Mar 1, 2011 1:45 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Friggin' awesomeJoe and I did an overnight on Lone Peak a few weeks ago. We were just a few feet from the summit but chose to head down because the sun was going down. So that is some unfinished business for us. i plan to get out as much as possible as Winter turns to Spring. Be sure to let us know if/when you come out here.
PellucidWombat - Mar 1, 2011 1:48 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Friggin' awesomeI won't be out there this winter season, but I do hope to finish off a Timpanogos Massif Traverse in winter one of these days. BF Twins-Cottonwood Ridge or Cascade Pk-Provo Pk Massif Traverse could also be nice.
granjero - Feb 28, 2011 6:08 pm - Voted 10/10
cool pics!I believe "full ridge ascents" in the Sierra must start at the terminus of the ridge at the fault scarp in the sagebrush i.e. east of the summit of Magic McGee...(or better style would be to ascend first the Rowell route on the north side then link to over to East Ridge)...just going with stylistic precedence of our beloved range :)
PellucidWombat - Feb 28, 2011 10:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: cool pics!oh, but if you climb over another named peak, then isn't it a "ridge traverse" or "linkup" rather than a "ridge ascent"? ;-) Although the idea of going over McGee as part of the ridge has occurred to me . . . :-)
You could do a nice horseshoe up McGee (maybe up the sweet looking couloir on the NW side?), do the East Ridge, then descend the North Ridge. Probably more of a 2.5-3 day climb from base camp in winter, though, or a lot more climbing in the dark.
PellucidWombat - Mar 1, 2011 11:20 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Sweet photosSorry about that, Wrathbum :-D
PellucidWombat - Mar 1, 2011 12:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice AdventureThanks! Now if the weather will allow me to have some more . . .
asmrz - Mar 1, 2011 11:32 am - Voted 10/10
Great trip, good TRThank you guys, good TR. What a classic Sierra ridge climb and how wonderful to do it in winter. Great photos,you took care to describe it all very well.Cheers and good climbing, Alois.
PellucidWombat - Mar 1, 2011 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great trip, good TRThanks Alois. Doing it in winter sure made it a more interesting climb. I've been aiming to do that for other easier climbs to make them more memorable. Plus you can't beat the ambiance!
aran - Mar 2, 2011 8:27 pm - Voted 10/10
Congrats, gents!Good times and a great summit! I hope to follow in pursuit one day. Great writing as well, keep it up!
PellucidWombat - Mar 3, 2011 12:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Congrats, gents!Thanks! It's a route well worth doing. Just make sure to do the whole thing - I think the climbing is best on the lower half, and the absolute best is going over the gendarme.
ExcitableBoy - Mar 6, 2011 10:27 am - Hasn't voted
Very nice.Incredibly well done trip report. Nicely done. One question: Is this a pretty typical approach length/elevation gain for winter routes in the Sierras?
PellucidWombat - Mar 6, 2011 12:32 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Very nice.Actually it's on the shorter end unless you're doing one of the mega-ridge routes or one of the other peaks that drops straight into the Owens Valley, at which point you pretty much just start from the valley. This approach is just extra tedious since you start way out in the valley.
However, a lot of the approaches are very worthwhile doing in skis. When we went up to the Petit Grepon skis made the whole excursion much faster! That approach was about 3,000 ft and 9 miles each way.
Scott Pierce - Mar 6, 2011 10:42 pm - Hasn't voted
GREAT TRIP REPORTWay, way excellent. Awesome climb, and cool report. What led you to choosing Humphreys? Keep it up.
PellucidWombat - Mar 7, 2011 2:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: GREAT TRIP REPORTThanks! I chose the peak, the route, and the timing for a number of reasons. The peak is definitely an attention-getter when you pass through Bishop or climb neighboring peaks. The route is listed in several recommended lists as a good climb, though sadly it is hard to see from the valley so you wouldn't be as drawn to the route otherwise. Since the rating is easy enough compared to what I could lead on a route in summer and in rock shoes, I figured it could be good for a winter ascent. I always like to find ways to make routes more memorable in one way or another :-)
etai101 - Mar 7, 2011 9:14 am - Voted 9/10
add to listi am so there this is what you look for when reading a trip report well done.
PellucidWombat - Mar 7, 2011 1:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: add to listThanks! It's a great peak to visit.
Bascuela - Mar 7, 2011 4:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Inspiring!Thanks for the detailed report. It was a fun read!
PellucidWombat - Mar 7, 2011 7:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Inspiring!I'm glad you enjoyed it!