Yellow Edge, 5.10c-5.12a

Overview/Approach

The Yellow Edge (Bowl) is another collection of stiff newer routes on Yamnuska. The "Bowl" as it is more commonly referred to is a collection of mostly 5.11 stout climbs sandwiched between the very common and easy Red Shirt route and the more moderate East End routes on Yamnuska. The most popular of these hard routes in the bowl are Corkscrew (5.12a or A0), East End Boys (5.12a) and Snert’s Big Adventure (5.11d-substantially bolted).


The “bowl” refers to the scooped out appearance on this section of Yam and “yellow edge” refers to the tint of the rock on the overhanging prow line on top of the scoop. When actually into the yellow portions of the wall, this can be some of the most precarious limestone on Yam making the climbing rather bold.

Follow the climbers trail up 1500’+ to the base of the wall. Turn right and follow the wall to the Yellow Edge area which refers to the right ride of the huge bowl before the east end of Yam. The direct start of Corkscrew starts below a slung pinnacle, just left of the pinnacle and left of a tree.

Route Description(s)

Yellow Edge Area, Left to Right as you Face the Wall

• The Bowl- 7 Pitches- 5.10c/


• Jimmy the Kid- 5 Pitches- 5.11c A3/


• East End Boys- 7 Pitches- 5.12a/


• Yellow Edge- 6 Pitches- 5.11b/


• Snert’s Big Adventure- 7 Pitches- 5.11d/


• The Quickening- 6 Pitches- 5.11b/


• Marriage Rites- 7 Pitches- 5.11b/


• Corkscrew- 7 Pitches- 5.12a or 5.8 A0/
We combined the first two pitches with a 70m rope without having to simul-climb, by climbing more left than the guide book suggests for the direct variation to straighten your line. We also combined the next two pitches, even though the 3rd pitch involves a long traverse, by judicial placement of pro and the use of double length runners. The final three pitches really need to be done separately. The 5th pitch is the 5.12 pitch and is quite stout across the retrofitted (2009) bolt ladder. Several of the bolts were not replaced, so it will still take some courage to free it and the true free line is substantially below the ladder without much pro. The fact that Ben freed it on those old bolts (30 yrs old! supposedly the first bolts installed on Yam) showed some courage indeed. The transition from the 5.12 section back to 5.8 climbing can be assisted with a tension rope above (2009). This crux pitch of Corkscrew can be easily aided at 5.8, A0. The final two pitches are long and wandering with mostly fixed gear to follow (pitons). You will get a close up view of the crux pitch of the Bolt Nazi, 5.11c/R at the 4th and 5th pitches of Corkscrew. Dow


• Bolt Nazi- 6 Pitches- 5.11c R/

External Links

Alpine Club of Canada

DowClimbing.Com

Environment Canada

Essential Gear

Images

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