Top Sirloin, 5.11
2nd Meat Wall is no doubt one of the better shaded walls
at Indian Creek
. Facing northwest, even in late afternoon, many of its classic corner routes (i.e. Top Sirloin, 5.11 and Tofu Crack, 5.10
) are well shaded. The buttress is shaped sort of like a protruding island with some pure north facing routes to the left. Therefore, routes to the right get morning sun. In October, it made sense to move from right to left. The view from this “island of cracks” is perhaps one of the finest at Indian Creek facing the setting sun with both Six Shooters in the foreground
. Most of the routes (at least 32 as of 2010) are typical Indian Creek long single pitch 5.10 and 5.11 sustained cracks peppered with a few 5.12’s as well as at least one 5.13 and one 5.9.
Continue west on Utah 211
past the paved parking area for Indian Creek. The turn off for the Meat Wall areas is a dirt road guarded by a cow gate
(2010; easy to open and shut) on the right, before you get to the Superbowl camp
turn off on the left. Drive down the rocky dirt road and take the left fork
. We took a tiny low clearance vehicle and made it but had to move a few rocks along the way. Drive to the end of the more graded road which drops you right off in front of the island looking buttress
which faces northwest towards the Six Shooters. This is 2nd Meat Wall. The original Meat Wall is further on down a less graded road.
Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the Wall
Top Sirloin- 5.11/130’ No question, Top Sirloin is the number one classic of this wall and a must do for 1” hand jammers. It is a slightly overhanging 1” sustained crack. For some of us, it is a bit small making it feel like a hard 5.11. Ten 1” pieces would get you warm and fuzzy on lead and no need for any other gear size really. You could still bring more 1" pieces if you had them though, 130' sustained. This pitch is sustained the whole way with a rest at a flake about 5m or so from the top. One of the most shaded routes at Indian Creek. Stays shaded all day in October. Turn left at the end of the approach trail and walk about 5 minutes or less looking for a large left facing corner. Route marked with sandstone engraving at base. FA Steve Hong.
Smell the Meat- 5.10/100’ Smell the Meat is definitely something a little different than just a simple crack at Indian Creek. Scramble up to a finger/hand crack and eventually take on the wide (5”) flake for 30’. Easier to layback up the outer edge of the flake, but hard to place pro. Then back to a finger/hand crack for the final 20’. This section of the wall will eventually get some sun late afternoon in October, but is nice and cool until then. Take several 5" pieces with you. From Top Sirloin, walk left past Tofu Crack (next left facing corner) and start below the obvious large flake. FA Jason Brown/Dave Simms.
Evening Ecstasy- 5.9+/70’ This is the only 5.9 route on 2nd Meat Wall that I am aware of (2010) as well as one of the shortest routes. Climb up the easy steep hand crack on the right until it starts to close off above the last finger portion. The crux of the pitch is making the transition into the left finger crack. I found the lower the better in making this work smoothly. Continue on up the nice finger crack on the left with a little more foot work than your average Indian Creek pitch. This section of the wall will eventually get some sun late afternoon in October, but is nice and cool until then. Located just left of Smell the Meat and Tofu Crack with the obvious station as it is so low (70’) compared to the others. FA Clint Dillard.
External LinksTons of Moab Area Tower Climbs from Radek's and my first hand perspective as well as a few othersCanyonlands National ParkMoab