Aconcagua Climber's Log

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e_wire

e_wire - Jan 16, 2008 8:34 am Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2008

Vacas route  Sucess!

Climbed to the summit via the Vacas valley route. We went up to regular camp1, then camp 3 of the Guanacos route, and finally to camp Colera. From there we did our summit. We left Base camp on January 5... So no days for acclimatazation, but it still worked fine!

Ialewis

Ialewis - Jan 14, 2008 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 2006

Polish Direct  Sucess!

My partner and I had excellent snow conditions on our trip. We found mellow kick-stepping up the low angle glacier which leads to a mellow rock step and a little flat walking to the summit. We spent seven hours round trip from camp 2. The Polish Direct is a lot of walking for an anticlimactic summit day, but still worth the trip.

utclimber - Jan 8, 2008 12:23 pm Date Climbed: Dec 27, 1998

False Polish  Sucess!

I had very clear weather on summit day, but it was extremely cold. A very memorable experience.

MountainHikerCO

MountainHikerCO - Dec 28, 2007 7:31 pm Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2007

Great Climb  Sucess!

Summitted with timfoltz. Almost no wind on top. We used an extra acclimation day at Nido. We did use an axe at Nido for chopping ice to melt! 11 days TH to TH.

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Dec 25, 2007 8:56 am Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2006

Never used crampons...  Sucess!

Successful summit! We went up the false Polish and down the normal route. Circumnavigating the mountain was way worth it.

hfaust

hfaust - Dec 20, 2007 1:51 pm

Normal Route  Sucess!

Summited from Nido and dropped back to Mulas that afternoon

bluefunk

bluefunk - Dec 20, 2007 1:14 pm Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2005

Polish Traverse  Sucess!

Climbed the False Polish route instead of the Polish Direct after one of our climbing partners got HAPE. Make shure you take your time it is a easy mountain to run up and get hammered by the altitude!!!

ClimberMan420

ClimberMan420 - Nov 17, 2007 3:56 pm

cold summit, long week

me and my climbing parnter had a completly succesful summit on pretty perfect day. We summited in 7 days as we were already acclimatized from travelling in Bolivia. I very highly recomend a few weeks travelling in Bolivia to acclimatize and adjust to teh local bacterias of South America. I saw to many people sruggle with the altitude and getting sick. We climbed unsupported by guides nor mules and paid teh low season permit. Total cost of food, transport, permit = less than $200. It seems that people like to pay a lot of money for guides that wont neccesarily help them much. BUT if you get sick, GO DOWN. be conservative with the altitude

radson

radson - Aug 19, 2007 8:00 pm

Normal Route Dec 2005  Sucess!

Went with Aymara. Found it quite cold compared to Nepal the month before.

Sara_Matisse

Sara_Matisse - Aug 11, 2007 11:56 am

Well... almost

Well... after a rough expedition (I was sick the whole time with what I called concrete boogies, which I guess can be common from all the mule/people crap and dust), and after being sedentary at high camp at 19,300ft. for 3 days... My lungs couldn't take any more... I had to get down. The rest of my group went up while I packed my stuff to go down. I had a great party with the locals at base camp:) which made up for my crappy luck on the mountain!!! All completed by a day of bouldering -which was super fun too:D

Sara_Matisse

Sara_Matisse - Aug 11, 2007 11:55 am

Well... almost

Well... after a rough expedition (I was sick the whole time with what I called concrete boogies, which I guess can be common from all the mule/people crap and dust), and after being sedentary at high camp at 19,300ft. for 3 days... My lungs couldn't take any more... I had to get down. The rest of my group went up while I packed my stuff to go down. I had a great party with the locals at base camp:) which made up for my crappy luck on the mountain!!! All completed by a day of bouldering -which was super fun too:D

schulzj

schulzj - Aug 1, 2007 3:39 pm Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2006

False Polish Glacier traverse  Sucess!

My friend Richard and I summitted in perfect weather. We couldn't have asked for better conditions. The trips was perfectly by an Argentinian company. I recommend the less trodden route up the Vacas valley and traversing the Polish glacier.

Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Jul 26, 2007 3:03 pm Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2006

Up Polish Traverse, Down Normal Route

Listening to the New Year's countdown in about 10 different languages at Plaza Argentina put a smile on my face...

Griffiths

Griffiths - Jun 5, 2007 7:21 am Date Climbed: Feb 1, 2006

False Polich Glacier  Sucess!

Fortunately poor weather had cleared by the time we reached base camp. Summit in almost perfect conditions (could have been a little less windy on ascent)

patascent

patascent - Feb 11, 2007 5:00 am Date Climbed: Jan 29, 2007

Polish Traverse

Three days hiking through the Vacas valley. Spent 3 days at Plaza de Argentia and did a carry to Camp 1. On day 7 of our trip, we moved to camp one...the wind was raging. A few days later we carried and then moved to camp two. Next day moved to camp 3 (White Rocks) at about 20,000 feet where we watched and waited for the weather to give us a break. It was relentless, lots of snow, and strong winds. After 3 days of misery at high camp we had to go down...no summit window ever opened. We dropped down the other side of the mountain to Plaza de Mulas and walked out to the trailhead via Confluencia the next day. Probably have to do this one again but I think I'll spend a week acclimating in Boliva before going to Argentina.

lefty

lefty - Feb 5, 2007 7:23 am Date Climbed: Jan 12, 2007

Two down, five to go!  Sucess!

Polish Traverse Route

Rick Kent

Rick Kent - Jan 25, 2007 5:11 pm Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2007

Normal Route

Climbed with dayhiker. His description below gives the details. Two other climbers (Scooter and Jyh) also climbed with us summitting shortly after we started down. Great trip and I like the fact that we didn't mess with Berlin and just went for the summit from Nido. After the summit I used the "escape route" for a quick scree descent back down to Nido. 9 hrs 15 mins to the summit from Nido, 1 hr 45 mins down. No view on top due to clouds but otherwise an excellent summit day.

YetiBauer

YetiBauer - Jan 24, 2007 8:26 pm Date Climbed: Jan 14, 2007

Plaza Argentina - Guanacos- Traverse and Exit the Normal Route  Sucess!

To all you Euro climbers, please pack out your turds!

Muddeer

Muddeer - Jan 18, 2007 9:45 pm Date Climbed: Jan 6, 2007

Polish traverse  Sucess!

Started from Camp 2 at around 630am. Reached the summit almost 9 hrs later. Didn't stay more than 2 minutes on it, as bad weather was moving in. I climbed solo and was the last person on summit that day. In fact, I didn't see a soul, not even from distance, as descended back to camp in snow. Great trip. Was a part of Brad Marshall's 2006/2007 expedition. Special thanks to Brad and Sue for organizing the trip.

MoapaPk

MoapaPk - Jan 18, 2007 12:26 am

Re: Ruta Normal

Congrats! Man, you did a quick trip.

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