Traversed the mountain from Plaza Argentina to Plaza de Mulas. Spent some horrible nights in storm in Camp 2 of the Polish route. Luckily got a weather window to summit just 2 days before the expiry of my permit.
Heavy snows and high winds delayed the summit bid, but I and two other American mountaineers reached the top after 14 days in the park. Very strong winds summit day, difficult to stand up straight on any ridge and along the traverse. Crampons were necessary the whole day as the route was covered with wind-blown snow and ice. 14.5 hours up and back, but beautiful all the way.
were not our friends ... made it 100' shy of the summit and turned back. Beautiful country and great wineries to ease the disappointment!
Climbed solo to America's highest peak. It took me 11 days to do it because hauling my loads up by myself was hard, but mostly because of bad weather.
I spent a night in Berlin Refuge (5,850 meters) in the middle of a bad snowstorm, very windy and cold up there!. I managed to descend to a lower elevation, Nido de Condores (5,300 meters) the following morning, where I spent a couple of more snowstorms.
A beautiful view from the top (6,962 m/22,841 ft.) A dream come true.
Found new and old friends who were part of this new adventure as Vanina, Clavo and Colo, all from Argentina. Thank you guys!
Can't wait to climb it again by the other routes as well.
Aconcagua Trip Report Here
Climbed via the Normal Route with Dan Cherry. We couldn't have asked for better weather during the entire trip.
Sumitted via the Polish Traverse.
Nice weather till the summit ridge when it started to snow.
Wonderfull experience and a tough day out!
First attempt, unfortunately unsuccessful, weather was too bad, lots of snow, windy and very cold. Made it to halfway between Camp 1 and Camp 2.
Back on the mountain for a third time. Attempted the Polish Direct route with Stefan Jeromin who, I'm sad to report, fell to his death during his descent. He will be sadly missed by all.
Have summited twice. Once with snow in the caneletta and once whithout. I definitely prefer the snow.
Attempted with Miguel Forjan a few years ago. Am planning on returning to take care of unfinished business.
Climbed Polish Glacier Direct with my climbing partner Jere Pettersson on January 15th 2008. The route was in excellent condition so simul-soloed almost the whole route. The rockband was easily went around from it's left.
Angle varied between 30 - 55 degrees average probably being around 40 degrees. The final ridge to the summit was surprisingly long and boring.
Descent to high camp through Canaleta and polish traverse.
Photos at www.samulimansikka.com
Made the summit via the false polish with my climbing partner Olle as the first summit team of the day
Wow, the highest I've ever been and the highest I'm likely to be for a long, long time (if not ever). I felt great leaving Nido at 3:30am, I felt great at 'Refugio' Independencia at sunrise, and I felt like crap on the summit. It was fantastic. My climbing partner got injured, so he stayed at Camp Canada. I started out from Nido with another fellow, but we split up at Independencia. I hiked the rest of the way by myself, but I was hardly alone. The Gran Acarreo is definitely the way to go on the way down. I was too tired to glissade safely, but it was still an easy, direct route and I didn't have to take my crampons off until below 6000m. Trudged back down to Plaza de Mullas that night. What an adventure.
Solo summit from Camp Colera via the Normal Route.
Nice climb. There was a dog at high camp!
I'd recommend going with local guides, as skilled as other guides are. Not only will you save money, but really have a chance to connect with the culture and the people. Not to mention supporting the local economy. Here is a link to my story. (And I'll mention my Outdoor writing is labor of love. Not my "day job." I don't get paid for hits.)
Normal route, summitted from Camp Colera. Canaleta was still covered with snow :). Had the summit to ourselves on a beautiful but chilly day.
I booked a private trip with Inka to climb the Polish Direct route, but it snowed a lot while we were moving up the mountain. My guide (Horacio Cunietti) and I carried all the necessary equipment to Camp 2, but on move to camp 2 day decided to traverse over to Camp Colera instead due to concern about too much snow on the glacier. Summitted on Feb 12 at about 2:30. Silver lining was that with all the snow, the Canaletta was a packed trail of snow, so not a scree slog.
Started up the Polish Direct at about 5am. Not long after being on the route we decided the snow was too deep and the risk of avalanche was way too high. We saw people attempting the route a couple days before and it was taking them forever and one man got severe frostbite from having to camp out over night on the route. After the decision we returned to camp two and dropped off our technical gear and started up the traverse to the normal route at 6am. It took me five hours to reach the summit from camp two. I would have to wait a couple hours before I could share the summit with anyone else. The clouds started rolling in around 1pm so I was the only one that got any clear summit photos that day. I stayed on the summit with perfect weather for just over three hours. Many people had to retreat from their summit attempts that day in fear of frostbite. The temperature was -13 with wind chill. I also saw people retreating because they didn't have crampons. I ended up breaking trail for everyone that day in about six inches of new snow. You definitely wouldn't have wanted to do the Canaleta without crampons. The return from the summit took two and half hours. We would then traverse the mountain and descend via the Horcones Valley to experience the whole mountain.