An epic experience. I planned to do the Polish direct, but when I got up to camp two the weather turned really bad (strong winds and snowfall). I made a few attempts to go up, but hence I was the only one to stay in the camp I found it impossible to climb the glacier by myself. All in all, I spent 5 days in C2 (5800m) on Polish Route and then used a good day for a transfer to Colera - C2 on the Normal Route (6000m), since there was too much risk of an avalanche on the glacier. Unluckilly I lost my sunglasses during the traverse and had to spend two more days in a tent curing snow blindness. Another team was trying twice to go up to the summit at the time but had to draw back due to strong winds and lots of snow on the route. So it turned out that I would have lost those two days anyway. They decided to retreat and left me their spare sunglasses and some eyedrops which would help me go down the next day. So I remained the last person high on the mountain.
But the next day my eyes were much better and the weather was ok despite the strong winds. I left late (09:00 am) but managed to get to the summit. There was relatively a lot of snow on the way and I had to make a new track by myself so it was quite hard. While descending I met two other climbers who had started straight from Nido and seemed really exhausted. Anyway, they made it to the summit too - big respect.
I hadn't had much respect for this mountain before this climb, but 19 days on the mountain made me change this opinion. It may happen that the weather will be great, but if it's not, the mountain becomes quite serious, even on classical routes. It was a good lesson for me.
Almost made it! The weather was very bad and the snow very deep. Slow me way down. Made it 21,700 feet!!!! Will go back in a couple years.
Horcones - 2 x Confluencia - 3 x Plaza de Mulas - Nido de Condores - 3 x Camp Berlin - Plaza de Mulas - Horcones (11 days from park entry to park exit)
Beutifull day with no clouds on the sky, climbed from Nino de Condores in ~14 h. The best trip in my life.
Traversed the mountain from Plaza Argentina to Plaza de Mulas. Spent some horrible nights in storm in Camp 2 of the Polish route. Luckily got a weather window to summit just 2 days before the expiry of my permit.
Heavy snows and high winds delayed the summit bid, but I and two other American mountaineers reached the top after 14 days in the park. Very strong winds summit day, difficult to stand up straight on any ridge and along the traverse. Crampons were necessary the whole day as the route was covered with wind-blown snow and ice. 14.5 hours up and back, but beautiful all the way.
were not our friends ... made it 100' shy of the summit and turned back. Beautiful country and great wineries to ease the disappointment!
Climbed solo to America's highest peak. It took me 11 days to do it because hauling my loads up by myself was hard, but mostly because of bad weather.
I spent a night in Berlin Refuge (5,850 meters) in the middle of a bad snowstorm, very windy and cold up there!. I managed to descend to a lower elevation, Nido de Condores (5,300 meters) the following morning, where I spent a couple of more snowstorms.
A beautiful view from the top (6,962 m/22,841 ft.) A dream come true.
Found new and old friends who were part of this new adventure as Vanina, Clavo and Colo, all from Argentina. Thank you guys!
Can't wait to climb it again by the other routes as well.
Aconcagua Trip Report Here
Climbed via the Normal Route with Dan Cherry. We couldn't have asked for better weather during the entire trip.
Sumitted via the Polish Traverse.
Nice weather till the summit ridge when it started to snow.
Wonderfull experience and a tough day out!
First attempt, unfortunately unsuccessful, weather was too bad, lots of snow, windy and very cold. Made it to halfway between Camp 1 and Camp 2.
Back on the mountain for a third time. Attempted the Polish Direct route with Stefan Jeromin who, I'm sad to report, fell to his death during his descent. He will be sadly missed by all.
Have summited twice. Once with snow in the caneletta and once whithout. I definitely prefer the snow.
Attempted with Miguel Forjan a few years ago. Am planning on returning to take care of unfinished business.
Climbed Polish Glacier Direct with my climbing partner Jere Pettersson on January 15th 2008. The route was in excellent condition so simul-soloed almost the whole route. The rockband was easily went around from it's left.
Angle varied between 30 - 55 degrees average probably being around 40 degrees. The final ridge to the summit was surprisingly long and boring.
Descent to high camp through Canaleta and polish traverse.
Photos at www.samulimansikka.com
Made the summit via the false polish with my climbing partner Olle as the first summit team of the day
Wow, the highest I've ever been and the highest I'm likely to be for a long, long time (if not ever). I felt great leaving Nido at 3:30am, I felt great at 'Refugio' Independencia at sunrise, and I felt like crap on the summit. It was fantastic. My climbing partner got injured, so he stayed at Camp Canada. I started out from Nido with another fellow, but we split up at Independencia. I hiked the rest of the way by myself, but I was hardly alone. The Gran Acarreo is definitely the way to go on the way down. I was too tired to glissade safely, but it was still an easy, direct route and I didn't have to take my crampons off until below 6000m. Trudged back down to Plaza de Mullas that night. What an adventure.
Solo summit from Camp Colera via the Normal Route.
Nice climb. There was a dog at high camp!