Aconcagua Climber's Log

Viewing: 121-140 of 210
Day Hiker

Day Hiker - Jan 16, 2007 5:13 pm Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2007

Ruta Normal  Sucess!

Climbed with Rick Kent and summitted about an hour later than that speedy guy. Our summit day was from Nido de Condores, which made for a very strenuous day. Here was my complete itinerary:

(02 January through 15 January, 2007)
Day 0: Mendoza, Argentina (2500 ft).
Day 1: Hike to Confluencia (11240 ft).
Day 2: Hike to Plaza de Mulas (14380 ft).
Day 3: Rest at Plaza de Mulas (14380 ft).
Day 4: Summit Cerro Bonete (16605 ft); sleep at Plaza de Mulas *(14380 ft).
Day 5: Rest at Plaza de Mulas (14380 ft).
Day 6: Carry gear to Nido de Condores (18300 ft), sleep at Plaza de Mulas (14380 ft).
Day 7: Rest at Plaza de Mulas (14380 ft).
Day 8: Move to Nido de Condores (18300 ft).
Day 9: Acclimatization hike to 20050 feet (first time above 20kft -- great views). Sleep at Nido de Condores (18300 ft).
Day 10: Rest at Nido de Condores (18300 ft).
Day 11: Summit (22841 ft). Leave for summit at 05:00. Ascent from Nido took me almost 10 hours. Canaleta scree scramble at 22000 feet is very strenuous for a big guy. Sleep at Nido de Condores (18300 ft).
Day 12: Descend to Plaza de Mulas (14380 ft).
future:
Day 13: Hike out to trailhead and take Grajales shuttle bus to Mendoza (2500 ft).

We chose to have an itinerary that was different from the typical Normal-Route itinerary that usually includes a lower intermediate camp, such as Canada, and summitting from a higher camp, such as Berlin. We did this to avoid the huge pain in the ass of heavy carries and moving camps.

The major downside of our itinerary was the long summit day, with 4500 feet of gain. Spend some time around 20000 feet, and you'll see how what would take 3 hours at a lower elevation takes 10 hours here.

The advantage of our itinerary was that we spent six nights (prior to ascent) at base camp (Plaza de Mulas -- 14380 feet), where the elevation and temperatures allowed for good sleep. We were able to access high places to climb from Mulas during the day. Likewise, from Nido, we were able to acclimatize during the day on higher parts of the mountain, while avoiding sleeping at the camps above 19000 feet. We were also able to sleep at Nido for four consecutive nights, without the hassle of moving camp.

Cerro Aconcagua is the one mountain in the area whose surveyed elevation of 22841 feet seems correct. After seeing deviations between surveyed and GPS elevations for Cerro Bonete and Cerro Manso, I thought about the possibility of an error in the GPS's ellipsoid Earth model for that part of the world. But, on Cerro Aconcagua, my two GPSs read 22855 feet and 22850 feet, so their elevation readings agreed with that surveyed, as 22841 feet is within the precision of the devices.

Brad Marshall

Brad Marshall - Jan 14, 2007 9:50 pm Date Climbed: Jan 8, 2007

False Polish Traverse  Sucess!

Sue and I both summitted via the False Polish Traverse in perfect weather, no wind and bright sunshine. Spent 1/2 hour at the top enjoying the view and our accomplishment.

weeds19

weeds19 - Jan 13, 2007 8:41 am Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2004

Snowy Canaleta = Good Canaleta  Sucess!

After a week of acclimating, 3 sick partners, and 1 sick porter I was all alone at Berlin Camp when I made a push for the summit. The weather was perfect and the conditions were great when I finally arrived at the highest point in the Americas

timfoltz

timfoltz - Jan 9, 2007 3:33 pm Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2007

Great Climb  Sucess!

No snow, never touched our crampons or ice axes. Amazing weather, cold but no wind, we were very fortunate. 9 hours up from Nido, but 6 coming down.

thenewpassion

thenewpassion - Dec 10, 2006 6:42 am Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2004

Normal Route  Sucess!

Aconcagua was my first multi-day expedition style climb. The weather played havoc on the nerves, but otherwise a most enjoyable and straight-forward climb. The trip took 12 days in total and was completed a few days before Christmas 2004.

phydeux

phydeux - Oct 7, 2006 4:38 pm

Polish x-over to Normal Route  Sucess!

Approched via the Polish Glacier route, then crossed over to the normal route on summit day (one of the few mild weather days). Amazing how many persons on the normal route as we approached it from the east. Met "Aconcagua Al" at the 19,000 ft campsite; he was still rresting comfortably.

osatrik

osatrik - Aug 15, 2006 6:44 am Date Climbed: Feb 3, 1997

OSAT 1997 Expedition

See the report on our multi-page expedition web site This expedition traversed the mountain (up the Polish side, down Ruta Normal), spent 40 hours 5 folks in a 3-man tent at 20,300 ft getting blown to bits by the Vente Blanca, but did not summit.

downbooties

downbooties - Jun 2, 2006 6:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2003

False Polish Route  Sucess!

So proud to summit with my 60 year old dad. Only felt sick one morning; maybe it was the altitude, but probably was the gas expelled from my 2 tentmates. Otherwise, I gained weight on the trip and my dad came back looking like he had been nailed to a tree. Great learning experience and pretty views on summit day.

nesnegroj

nesnegroj - May 16, 2006 6:29 pm Date Climbed: Feb 17, 2005

Normal route  Sucess!

We had excellent weather on the hole trip, including the summit day. A bit cold in the morning -21 C on my back pack. Otherwise perfect conditions.

ElCapitanKoolAid

ElCapitanKoolAid - May 7, 2006 5:51 pm Date Climbed: Jan 1, 1998

A long way from home  Sucess!

My trip started in Peru in july 1997. I did not know that I was going to be two years and a half in South America. With $40 from La Paz I went to Santiago and some people loaned a tent a jacket and food to go to Aconcagua. This has been the climb that I cherish the most because it taught me that everything is possible.

tetontom

tetontom - Apr 19, 2006 2:38 am

Summit #17  Sucess!

Just finished my 7th guiding season on Aconslogua and racked up summits 15, 16, and 17.
I think another year of this and I'll need a break...

Moogie737

Moogie737 - Apr 18, 2006 3:30 am Date Climbed: Feb 15, 2006

Guanacos Valley/travers

This less-traveled route is spectacular. We began on Feb.3rd, and on Feb. 6th the afternoon weather became ever more suspect with each passing day. The day we reached our high camp it snowed 6" and turned nasty. Our group of five climbers had to abandon summit plans because of continued poor weather, but the exprience was terrific.

tkikuchibr

tkikuchibr - Mar 24, 2006 2:11 am Date Climbed: Feb 24, 2006

Polish Glacier Traverse  Sucess!

Summit on Feb 24, 2006, seizing an excellent weather window opportunity. 4 days in Plaza Argentina, 2 in Camp1 and 1 in Camp2.
Return through Vacas valley was very windy (>50kph)with sandstorms, even lenticular clouds forming over the mountain range.
Thanks a lot to guide Matoco (Grajales), and Dagmar, Gabriel for the delicious meals at Basecamp. Also spent great time with friends from Inka (Jairo, Eduardo, Luli, Mari). Hope to see you guys in coming expeditions elsewhere in the world!

Brad Marshall

Brad Marshall - Mar 15, 2006 12:21 am Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2005

Route Climbed: False Polish Traverse

Climbed the False Polish Traverse with my wife but did not reach the summit. Met a lot of great people Walt, William Marler, Laurie Skreslet, Dave from Boston, Jon from Germany, Glen from Norway and Miguel and Pinky from Inka. We got invited to their camp on New Year's Eve. Great times, great people and great memories of the adventure of a lifetime.

Tomasz Jazwinski

Tomasz Jazwinski - Mar 10, 2006 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Feb 14, 2006

Ruta normal  Sucess!

Going out of Berlin Camp on 4 a.m, on the summit on about 2 p.m. Good conditions in the night, light moonlight, no wind. During the day more clouds and wind, from the summit very poor view. During the descent strong snow and wind, problems to find the way back. Return to Berlin camp on 7 p.m.

incrediblesnowman

incrediblesnowman - Feb 21, 2006 1:44 pm Date Climbed: Feb 15, 2006

Falso Polacos  Sucess!

Me and my friend Martin broke the trail all the way ,from Campo 2 in 20 cm fresh snow, to the summit. The night climb was magical but as soon as the sun came up the weather deteriorated gradually. It erupted in a blizzard later in the afternoon.

The expedition was a success due to 3 fantastic climbing partners in Martin Adserballe (Tibet veteran cyclist from DK), Geoffrey Stanford (Everest and Himalaya veteran) and Tom Clowes (Everest, Ama Dablam and Everest soon again :-) ).

Thank you Dagmar for the Pizzas in Plaza Argentina (F.G. Exp.)

MarieP

MarieP - Feb 8, 2006 9:56 am

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: January, 2006  Sucess!

Very beautiful sunrises and very noisy base camp.

Alpine72

Alpine72 - Feb 5, 2006 4:35 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Feb 1 2006  Sucess!

Reached the summit under light winds and good temps after a blustery cold start. Took about 12hrs return from Calero, slow, yes but spent about an hour or more resting in a snow field on the way down below Indepencia.

Gremo

Gremo - Feb 1, 2006 2:44 pm

Route Climbed: Falso de los Polacos Date Climbed: January 23 2006  Sucess!

I left C2 at 06:30 and walked in knee high snow all the way to the summit. Got there at 12:05. It was a beautiful day with almost no wind. Walked down to Plaza Argentina in the evening and enjoyed a pizza. A great day!

Ario

Ario - Jan 29, 2006 2:56 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 26 january 2006  Sucess!

100% of the trail was snow covered - sunny day, no wind. left Berlin at 7:10 and reached the summit at 14:40. Great views and great experience.

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