The Adang Route.
The "Adang" Route is the most popular route on the impressive South Face of Sas Ciampac. The line is quite impressive, seeming to climb a featureless slab for the middle section, and ending it what is obviously an intimidating chimney, even seen from below. In fact, the slab is featured enough, but the chimney is possibly harder than expected.
The route makes a nice pair with it's neighbor, the "Geschweifter Kamin," about 100 meters to the west. Having climbed both now, I can say that either offers a great day. The "Adang" offers cleaner climbing, but is likely more crowded on a nice summer day.
The route was first climbed by G. Adang and party in 1903.
Approach the wall from a 4-5 car parking space on the east side of the Grödnerjoch (Grödner Pass), found at about the first switchback down from the pass (~2 minutes driving). Hike up a dirt road by a barn, and continue traversing the hillside eastward on trail signed for the Forcelles Schutzhütte. When right below the wall, leave the trail and hike up scree slopes below the prominent face (we found a cairn and path here).
The start of the route is a bit indistinct. Recognize that you must start well left of the impressive slabs above, from a steep and narrow grass band hard against vertical rock. A "Sanduhr" (hourglass) formation in the rock marks the first belay, right below a grade IV crack that makes up the first pitch.
The base of the route.
The first pitch.
On pitch 9 (IV)
- Pitch 1, IV, 35 m - climb a chimney/crack up and right to a belay on an easy face.
- Pitch 2, IV, 30 m - climb up into an obvious black dihedral/crack. Fun pitch.
- Pitch 3, III, 50 m - easier climbing then scrambling leads to a broad ledge.
- Pitch 4, IV-, 50 m - traverse the ledge rightward and around a corner to a piton belay. Long and indistinct.
- Pitch 5, IV, 35 m - climb a very nice white dihedral, the best pitch so far. Belay on a ledge at the top.
- Pitch 6, IV-, 30 m - traverse hard right, then up an indistinct face, slabby but with pockets.
- Pitch 7, IV-, 30 m - traverse ledge right to a large block, then head up to a two piton belay below a dihedral.
- Pitch 8, IV, 30 m - climb the obvious dihedral via a steep crack. A very good pitch, with piton, cam and nut protection. 30 meters.
- Pitch 9, IV, 50 m - climb a steep corner on the left edge of the face to a belay below a chimney.
- Pitch 10, V-, 35 m - Climb a long chimney, with sustained moves beginning at half-height. I left my pack at a piton and squeezed into the chimney. Very strenous and probably the wrong solution. Bridging outside the chimney offers style points!
- Pitch 11, IV-, 40 m - Continue up a ramp from the belay, then back left to right above the belayer. The terrain becomes loose and easy to a belay. There is danger of rockfall on the belayer without delicate rope management and climbing.
From this point scramble 150 meters to the summit (faint trail).
A slabby pitch in the middle of the route.
From the summit, follow a trail west to the Crespeina-Joch at 2528 meters. Go down then back up to the Cir-Joch (2466 meters). Then down to the Clarkhütte, and easily back to your car or the Grödnerjoch.
A rack of nuts and cams to #3 Camelot. Double ropes would be handy for retreat. Bring plenty of slings. The descent may be snowy, depending on the time of year, so it's a good idea to bring gloves and thick socks, especially if you plan to wear tennis shoes for the way down.
- This page (in Italian) has a topo for the route.
On the hike down...