splendid rock on a perfect day
Two great routes in two different styles in two days!
Wow. Extraordinary route and peak. Highly recommended.
Climbed the Voie de Nain route on the Clocheton Gunneng East Face (150m, AD-) and then linked that to Dibona via the last 2 pitches of the Voie Normal. Not too difficult and very enjoyable climb!
An outstanding peak!
9 of us on top via normal route (Sabrina, Ol, me, ...)
I had the chance to see a Brocken spectre on top
nice weather, good rock, a lot of air...
Great route; especially the tunnel in the first pitch :D
total recommended, this awesome route geared with bolts in the finest granit. 5 hours. We rappelled the route. The hut good, but I have eaten better in the CAF huts.
I climbed this route twice in 4 days, great way to get on top of Aiguille Dibona. Less crowded on the first part until you reach the Clochetons de Gunneng (climb only, no walk).
I made a page to describe the route :
hard for its grade but beautiful. equipped belays with pitons
the east face (cotation IV with french system) is an interesting alternative to Madier or Visite Obligatoire, much more difficult
allthough it's the easiest, shortest route on the mountain, it's still superb!
we didn't plan doing it, but ended up on the wrong col due to the thick fog, and were surprised to see the dibona before us, not willing to turn back, we decided to climb her, via the traverse of the clochetons right next to her.
it was a cold day, a windy day and a misty day, but when I arrived at the summit, sun broke through, and all was perfect. I sat there with my climbing mate Wim, untill the sun went down, letting us warm up again by the rays of the sun: beautifull...
unfortunately, we didn't take a pocket light with us :)
but it was worth it!
Climbed the easy backside with Clarity on a great day. Crowded summit but still great views. Hiked 3 hours fro, the car park to the Sorrellier Hut, then on to the backside of the formation. Follow the red dotted trail from the hut to a lightning antennae and look for the cairns on the right. Follow the cairns up the trail and scree to the rope up point. Then its 2-3 easy pitches to the top. Rap the route and return.
Recommend planning to spend a few days at the hut since there are so many attractive routes to climb.
Great rocks and and my first encounter with climbing above 2500m. Great view!
Just as a curiosity: I made it to the peak in 3 hours from the car (2 to the refuge and one more via 'voie normale' on the back side) in a pair of running shoes - beat that!
Good weather, good rock, good friend Fabian Zomer for this climb