Did the Charmoz-Grepon traverse, starting from the refuge at Plan de l'Aiguille at 2:30AM. Missed the cable car by 2 minutes and got to stay at the refuge again with a more reasonable wake-up time. Super long route with some pretty difficult climbing and exposed on the summit ridge of the Charmoz
Georges Livanos route in 1963. Because it was a Livanos route. It has only one nice pitch on a fine slab, but irt makes a nice short day out.
Climbed with Odette Frolich (later Odette Bernezat) in 6 hours. Caught by a huge storm on the end of the last pitch. I saw the storm coming from the beginning but each time I asked Odette if she felt like going down, she responded no, so we did it but came down thoroughly soaked.
Started at six at 19.00 summit. Oops little too long. Descent of nantillons glacier in the dark. Kind a spooky without torch. Thanks Menno and the germans for lighting my path. Finished at 1.00 at plan dáiguille refuge. Full day in mountaineering boots, a beautifull classic.
we did it, but the route finding difficulties were slightly over our heads... we worked on it for eighteen hours... allthough we lost some time due to 'traffic jams' mostly on the rappel sites.
magnificent experience, 'grande course',
worthy of being called a 'full alpine route'
glacier approach (the nantillons glacier is allways tricky) route finding on the rock rognon in the dark, and then rock rock rock till the top. beautifull!