Les Lepidopteres - nice and classic route. We made it in 4 lenghts up to the Pappilon arette. It could be made in 3 lenghts with 60m. rope from the big ledge in foot of the route.
Climbed in in 1980 with Jacques Porta the son of Michel Porta who did the first ascent. The pitches in the final chimney are quite strenuous!
Marvelous combination to be ended with the Classical Lepiney crack. Climbed in with Yves Besson (Tostin) in 1962.
climbed it with Jean Afanassieff around 1990. Marvelous modern Piola route. One of his best.
Great rock, nice climbing. Tricky step on the 5c pitch. Nice route for a shorter day.
A memorable rock climbing outing with my son Christoph and our guide Eric. Super rock, dramatic exposure and spectacular views from the summit. We took longer than planned and had to hurry back to catch the very last Tram from Plan de l'Aiguille at 18:15. A great day overall!
Nice climb with a tricky traverse over three bulges. The VI+ sections are streneous.
good route, but busy
Got lost, kind of climbed up and round it! Got to the top though traversed summit ridge and descended safely. Missed the cable car and had to walk back to town. Met some Polish climbers with crazy ancient gear and climbing techniques - including use of fixed rope!
Good climb. The Pappillons ridge offers 200 meters of very nice rock climbing up to V/V+. Contuining to the summit (another 200/300m?, IV) gives a much more alpine feeling however it was longer than we expected (17 'o clock back at basecamp).
Empty and oh so much better for it. Which was a lovely piece of luck.
This is a great, albeit popular, route. It's about 12 pitches of sustained climbing, with technical difficulties reaching 5.10a. We rappelled straight down from the top of the gendarme, which was really spooky in a whiteout. We were lead off route by a stray bolt (or piton) about halfway up and had to gingerly retrace our steps. I vaguely remember missing the last telepherique and enjoying the 3000 foot downhill trudge.
Climbed with Philippe Gerschel and Tracy Arienne, starting from Plan de l'Aiguille at around 9AM. There were a ton of parties on the route, which led to some delays and we were climbing as a group of three, which is always slow. Some very nice and varied pitches. A lot of exposed climbing, but with good protection. I especially liked the huge flakes just below the summit of the third tower. After reaching the junction with the normal route, one rappel got us into the Papillons Couloir, which we descended to the Pelerins glacier. I just made the last cable car back to Chamonix. Philippe and Tracy weren't so lucky.
My first alpine climb. Climbed with a chap from Wales long time ago. Missed the last lift down and had to hike the trail down to Chamonix in the dark
Nice route with a few route finding challenges to link Minettes Ridge to the Voie Normale.
My first ascent in the Chamonix area. Looks like a very long time ago, though every moment of this climb remains in my memory
Nice climb and highly recommended...in the last pitch some challenging run-outs (see picture)