Aletschhorn 2008

a fantastic lonely mountain

The trip to the Aletschhorn of my brother and me from 17.08.08 until 20.08.08.
As we started at Belalp 1330m alt. in the afternoon we didn't knew that the way to the Mittelaletschbiwak would be so far and will take 1 day longer than expected. Later we heared that this is the mountain with the longest way to the summit in the Alps along the normal route. We planned to sleep on the Aletsch glacier but later a rain shower forced us to sleep in a little hut (Tätsche).
The next morning the wheather was very well and we started at 6 am. Soon we reached the glacier as we followed the path. It was not so easy to find the right way down to the glacier. After a short irritation by the labyrinth of crevasses we reached the middle of the glacier.

At 9:30 we turned to the Mittelaletsch glacier. We went at the right side, but in the middle it would be better. At 16 we were at the Mittelaletsch Biwak at 3013m. On this day we were 10 alpinists; 8 in descending and we both in ascending.
The forcast was well until the next noon. So we started at 4:30 am. But it wasn't easy to find the right way in a mixed terrain even in the moonlight. Later we regained the lost time on the glacier. Reaching the Aletschjoch we passed a difficult passage to point P. 3718m because the the snow was powdery. We both had no experience in hiking steep slopes. So we were very impressed by the northern slope which is declined 55° over 700 m altitude in difference. The ridge was sharp like a knife. Not a footstep had place on the ridge. In the higher region the snow was solid. At 10am we crossed the hump of firn P. 4086. Then it wasn't far to the very impressive summit ridge with snow at the east side and steep rugged rock at the west side. At noon we reached the summit. There were no clouds, only a cold and stormy wind.

From this central situated summit in 4192m altitude, a wonderful view over the Alps was possible. After 30 minutes we descended on the same route. Already in the half way we stood in the clouds and when we arrived the bivouac at 17 pm it just began to rain. The night we passed in the bivouac again. By reason that we needed more time for this trip as we thought, the only provisions that remained were chocolate and a bit of tea, bread and salami for the night and the whole next day. So we were very afraid that the last group left us their no longer requiered soup, sausage and bread (thank you very much at this place to the hungarian friends!). During the night it rained all the time and in the higher region it fell snow again. But in the morning there were only a few clouds and the summit was shining so wonderful in the fresh white snow. At 8:30 am we descended the Mittelaletsch glacier and crossed the great Aletsch glacier to take this time the way over Bettmeralp and Riederfurka. In this way we crossed the dam of the Stausee Gibidum, which retains the melt water of the great Aletsch glacier. After this long trip we arrived Blatten just 5 minutes before the grocery store closed at 6 pm. So we could buy our dinner for our hungry stomachs. What a great feeling and impressing tour!

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