Apollofalter

Overview

Apollofalter is one more classic route like Eiertanz, Ostkante, Traumpfeiler, etc. It's not that popular like the other classics because you have to walk the 20 min approach to the start of the climb. Ypsiloterafels (Ypsilotera means ''highest'' in greek and fels means ''rock'' in german.)
Actually the start of Apollofalter is approximatelly in the same height as Doupiani and Kelch. The Ypsilotera Rock has very nice views to the rest of Meteora rocks, because is one of the the highest in this group.
Apollofalter was first climbed by: Udo Daigger and Helmut Daigger in 15.4.81

Getting There

For getting to Meteora, check the Meteora page.

Once in Kastraki village you can walk from the square to the West Group in 10-15 minutes, or you can park your car near Doupiani Rock. From Doupiani to Ypsilotera is a 20-25 minutes walk. The trail (see topo) passes near some very characteristic routes, like crack/offwidth routes Aufschwung and Regenbogen.

Route Description

The route starts on a boulder about 30m right of the West Ridge (Westkante). You can leave some things on the West Ridge start, this is the abseil route.

Pitch 1: Climb the gap between the boulder and the wall, then diagonally to the right (IV+), easy long traverse to the right (II), then up (IV+) to the base of the groove, to the belay ring. First pitch is 40m, guidebook gives 3 bolts, but now has 4 or 5.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up the groove (V-). At about 25m traverse right (IV) to the next groove to the right. 35m, guidebook gives 3 bolts, but now has 5. You can but some extra nuts/friends at the begining and end of the pitch.
Pitch 3: Straigt up the groove to the small overhang (V-), then easy (III) to the belay. 25m, 2 bolts. Guidebook gives belay on a thread, but now has a ring.
Pitch 4: Climb the chimney (II) all the way up to the tree. Belay on the tree. This pitch is 25m, has no bolts and it's good to have some medium/large hexes/friends for protection. This pitch is wet sometimes, after rainy periods. Check before climb.
Pitch 5: Climb/walk (I) to the top. 20m. You can belay on a ring near the summit book.

Descent: Walk to the left side of the wall (west). There are many possibilities for abseilling. The classic one is Westkante. 4 rappels: 1x15m, 1x30m, 1x35m, 1x35m. Don't make 1st and 2nd together.

Something very important for abseiling in Meteora is the way of putting the knot through the 'horizontal' rings. You have to put the rope with the knot (the rope for the pull) on the downside of the ring (between the ring and the rock). Otherwise maybe there is a problem, because the pulling rope is blocking the other rope, pressing it with the ring to the rock.

The time for the whole route with descent is about 2:30 to 4:30 for the most parties. The rock quality in Apollofalter is generally good. ENJOY!

Essential Gear

For this route you need: 2x50m half/twin ropes, helmet, personal gear (harness, lockers, belay/rappel device, climbing shoes), slings and 6-8 quickdraws, some medium/large nuts, 2 medium/large cams or 2-3 large hexes.

Season-When to climb

Spring and Autumn are the best seasons for Meteora. Avoid Summer, especially really hot days. Apollofalter is a good choice for Winter afternoons, south/southwest facing in general. The route has sun a lot of hours. Take care for the 4th pitch, see from away if it looks wet.

Images

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