Danae, Ypsiloterafels

Overview

Danae (Ypsiloterafels)

Ypsiloterafels is one of the best rock climbing destination in the Meteora (Μετέωρα) area. It's a mighty and attractive tower located in the Meteora Western Group and it's one of the most characteristic rocks of this sector. It's located near the Teufelsturm (Devils Tower), a little hidden behind the monastery of Agios Nikolaos Anapafsas. Ypsiloterafels counts several high quality multi-pitch routes on its South face and offers great views of the surrounding monasteries and towers. A beautiful route to be climbed is Danae. A curiosity: in Greek mythology, Danaë was an Argive princess and mother of the hero Perseus. 

Getting There

Meteora is situated in the Thessaly region of Greece, Northern half of Greece, approximately 25 km NNW from Trikala, and immediately North of Kalambaka and Kastraki, the two main towns in the area, both located very close to the rocks. The closest main town is Larissa. The distance to Kalambaka is about 360 km from Athens and 237 km. from Thessaloníki.

By plane - Meteora can be approached from Athens Eleftherios Venizelos airport or from Thessaloniki airport. From these airports you can:

- take a domestic flight to Larissa (about 85 km from Kalambaka) - rent a car, useful once you are in Kastraki, but not essential, then 4 hour drive to Kalambaka on a new highway. - use public transports (bus or train). Getting to Meteora without a car is easy thanks to the train from Athens that stops in Kalambaka.

By ferry from Italy – If you wish to travel with your own car, there are different shipping companies and many ferries departures to Igoumenitza from the harbours of Ancona, Bari and Brindisi across the Adriatic.Then a mountain road to the small town of Kalambaka at the foot of the wonderful Meteora.

Approach to Ypsiloterafels

The approach trail starts along the road just past the shaded parking lot near Doupianifels. From here walk up the road and take to the left a dirt track. After about 100 m look for a path heading right towards Ypsiloterafels. Stay on this trail until it forks and take the right branch heading uphill in the North direction. In the last part some easy scrambling lead to a shaded terrace under the wall. The starting point of Danae is on the right of the terrace.

Route Description

Danae - French scale

Summit altitude: 800 m
Difficulty: Alpine TD, max 6a+ (French scale)
Route length: 140 m
Exposure: SE
First ascent: A.Theodoropoulos & D. Karalis, 1997

Stunning route, quite challenging, on excellent rock

From the right end of the terrace at the base of the Ypsiloterafels wall you must reach the first hanging belay, already a few meters high from the ground. 

L1 - From the stance traverse briefly to the right, then climb obliquely to the right with an exposed runout to reach a crack  Climb the bried but hard crack and stop just above on a huge pebble, 6a+, 30 m.

L2 - A magnificent pitch, worthy of an anthology! Oblique slightly to the left, then climb directly on large pebbles until the next belay, 5c, 40 m

L3 - Directly with beautiful climbing a little less demanding than the previous pitch on excellent pebbles, 5b, 30 m

L4 - Directly on slightly less steep terrain reach the belay, 3°, 35 m. It is possible to stop here or even continue until the exit from the wall. 

Follow a brief path to reach the top of the tower. Summit book

Descent: abseiling along the route Butterfly

Essential Gear

For this route you need: 2x50m half/twin ropes, helmet, personal gear (harness, lockers, belay/rappel device, climbing shoes), slings and 7-10 quickdraws 

Climbing grades

Red Tape

No fees and no permits required. Anyhow, if you are visiting this area, remember not to climb on rock formations with inhabited monasteries. In the Seventies Dietrich Hasse and his team decided, in agreement with local authorities, not to climb any route on these latter rock formations. This rule applies even today. Please preserve all other historical remains. Another important suggestion is not to add fixed protections on the classic routes to the pre-existing ones. If you plan to visit the monasteries, keep in mind to be appropriately dressed: men cannot wear shorts, while women must wear long skirts and not trousers, arms must be covered. Since the year 1988 Meteora was declared a Meteora Unesco World Heritage Site .

When to climb

All year round (snowfalls are rare) in theory, but summer and winter are not advisable because temperatures may be unpleasant. The best months are late March, April, May, September and October.

Accomodation

There is a wide choice of hotels, B&Bs, rooms for rent and a pair of organized campsites in Kastraki, the village built in the shadow of the Meteora towers. There is also a smaller campsite near the tower of Doupiani.The nearby town of Kalabaka also features many accomodation choices.

Meteo

Meteo Kalambaka

Guidebooks and maps

“Meteora – Climbing and hiking” by Dietrich Hasse and Heinz Lothar Stutte - I edition 1986, in English and German. It contains around 230 routes. Also, it provides general information about mountaineering, hiking in Meteora, maps, directions.

The second guidebook is:

“Meteora Climbing Part II” by the same Heinz Lothar Stutte and Dietrich Hasse – II edition 2000 – German, Greek and English - Note: the II edition is not a complete guidebook, but an update to the I edition

The Meteora guidebooks can be purchased in Kastraki, Taverna Paradisos or Camping Vrachos. There is also a useful map by the same authors that can be purchased in local shops in Kastraki.

External links

Climb Greece - Meteora