This variation bypasses the middle peak and the downclimb into the notch from Arc Pass. It's a direct route to the notch between the middle and north summits from Arc Pass. This route could also be utilized to climb the middle summit from the notch. The route is not listed in Secor's route descriptions for this peak nor in any trip reports that I'm aware of. It's a short route, maybe 20-30 minutes or so, from start to finish. I found it incredibly obvious and easy. I would also assume if the 1st first party up knew the northern peak was higher, they would have utilized this route and bypassed the (lower) middle peak alltogether, but they obviously didn't.
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This route starts roughly halfway between Arc Pass and the middle summit of Mt. McAdie. The quickest approach is taking the main Whitney trail to Consultation Lake then up to Arc Pass.
About halfway up the standard route from Arc Pass to the middle summit, traverse right and follow easy ramps/ledges beneath a gray wall into the main chute. (class 2-3). Once in the main chute, bypass a chockstone on it's left side and climb the chute to the notch between the middle and northern summit blocks. (class 2). Follow the traditional route to either the northern summit or the middle summit.
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