climbed with gaddy
That last move is indeed exposed; I recommend anyone coming up to bring a little minimal gear to protect, and to make the descent safer.
The route quality was okay, but would have preferred to do the Northeast Couloir. 4th class move has a hidden move, so it's not as bad as it looks. You could skip a rope if you feel comfortable on 4th class, however most are not.
Got some decent glissades in on the way down.
17.5 hours car to car. Trip report
Mostly an ugly mix of sand, choss, and krummholtz, with a bit of class 4-5.easy here and there. The long part of a traverse. Trip report.
Approach wasn't too bad following cairns over talus instead of the bush close to Mountaineer Creek. Perfect snow for cramponing up to the small basin N of Argonaut then the couloir was in great shape. Lots of places to place pro as we simulclimbed the couloir, then climbed a wet, sort of snow covered 5.6 chimney to reach the upper snowfield. Scramble on the ridge to summit was covered in fresh snow! Beautiful views of Stuart. On the descent, we rapped off to the east in 2 30 meter rappels, one from a rock with pre-placed sling and a second from a small tree. Then traversed right on a snow covered ledge to the east gully. Glissade down the Colchuck glacier was incredible! 15 hours car to car
Took Beverly Turnpike to 4th Creek trail, up the bushwack to prominent south gully. Solo climbed and rappelled class 4 pitch to summit ridge. Fun scrambling and exposure. Very enjoyable sharp and sheer peak. Bivied in south gully on a sloping ledge. Slid downhill all night long. Great mountain.
Consolation prize, wanted to do a new winter route up the direct north face. Wasn't enough ice to climb.
With Moni. A really really hot day!
With Fred. We got fouled up and went up one gully too far east, so we had to traverse back into the main gully - cost us a bunch of time. This is a long route, but fun. We went in by way of Beverly-Fourth Creek - must less distance and vertical than any other way. Trails were good. No bugs!! But it was stinking hot - really zapped our energy.
An interesting and enjoyable route. We encountered some water ice, recommend taking second tool and steel crampons later in the season.
Paul Klenke, Sergio Verdina, Tod Bloxham, and I summited Argonaut via the Northeast Couloir route in 14.5 hours car to car (including a traverse of Colchuck). We found this route much more moderate than we expected. Not a lot of information was available on this route, since it is only described as a summer rock route in the brown Beckey guide.
The approach in the basin was quite a slog on some steepish snow. Once inside the couloir, the climbing was fun, but strenuous with the soft snow conditions. After that we climbed a short pitch of mid 5th class rock. There we encountered another party we had seen in the couloir from the approach. They didn't make the summit due to a notch, but were thinking about giving it another shot. After summiting, we found out they bailed again.
Tod went on ahead scouting the ridgeline, with me just behind him. He found the prominent notch descibed in some online trip reports, which required a rappel to get into. Tod and I downclimbed some steep snow to get back onto the snowfields, then alerted Sergio and Paul to the condition.
We then traversed some moderate snow on the north side, before gaining access to the ridge at a point about halfway between the central summit and main summit. We traversed the ridgeline, on 3rd class terrain before eating lunch together on the main summit.
We retraced our steps then rappeled the 5th class section with a full 50 meter rap. From here we traversed to the south into the East Gully, which we downclimbed. From here we cut accross the basin on the east side of the ridge towards Colchuck Peak.