Autumn Ledges

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
One to two days
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
8
Grade:
III

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Autumn Ledges
Created On: Mar 12, 2008
Last Edited On: May 21, 2008

Overview

FA 1997 by Jon stark, Craig Morris and Larry Cote
FWA March 2-3, 2008 by Kostas Stamatiou and Shay Har-Noy

Despite the confusing description in Secor, this line does NOT ascent the largest of the left facing corner systems to the right of Dynamo Hum. Rather it stays to the right of that system connecting a series of disjoint ledges and corner systems ascending the left side of the orange face.

This route does not see much traffic but contains some good climbing in a beautiful setting. Probably not a good climb for an aspiring 5.8 leader as the first two pitches can be a bit exciting.

In the winter the approach to the route will require the use of boots, crampons, and axes. Above the fir tree almost all of the pitches begin on ledges and hence a steep snow patch needs to be navigated. We found that this can be done in rock shoes though this is probably weather dependent (2008 was an exceptionally strong snow year).

Getting There

See approach beta as for Summer Solstice

Route Description

0) 5.4 pitch to the fir tree, we soloed this in boots and crampons as it was mostly covered with steep snow

1) ~5.8 grainy flared crack that takes you to a small ledge

2) ~5.8 grainy flared crack that takes you to a long ledge, then go WAY left on the ledge and ascend another crack right above a small bush.

3) ~5.9 crumbly face move along a flared crack allows you to gain a big ledge.

NOTE: Pitches 2&3 should be combined if you know where you are going.

4) Go right and up towards a steep imposing left-facing corner system. Step left into the corner and ascend a slightly muddy crack with awesome face holds guiding the way.

5-11) Follow the disjoint corner systems and ledges.


Essential Gear

Climbing gear:
1 set stoppers from #2
TCUs #1-3
1 set C4 camalots up to #2
2 slightly larger hexes
50m rope