Winter Chimney

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Rock Climb
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
III, 5.8
Number of Pitches:
8
Grade:
III

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Winter Chimney
Created On: Jun 13, 2005
Last Edited On: Jul 18, 2006

Approach

First ascent of the Winter Chimney on June 11, 2005 by Miguel Carmona and Joe LeMay. The Winter Route is a gulley that runs up and left along the south face of Lone Pine Peak. Just to the right of the Winter Route is a corner or chimney that can be seen from the trailhead and Stone House. It also runs up and left, but much steeper than the Winter Route. This is the Winter Chimney.

The route climbs 8 pitches. On the first ascent we approached from the trailhead and completed it in 15 ½ hours car-to-car.

From the Stone House, traverse horizontally toward the north fork of Tuttle Creek. Use the same approach that one would take to get to the Czech Pillar.

Ascend the drainage leading toward the orange wall. Pass the left drainage for the Winter Route and continue up and then left to the start of the Czech Pillar at a notch. A cairn built by Miguel and Alois in 1998 is located there. One can see the route from here. Descend to the gulley and approach a chimney with ramp on its right that begins the route.

On the first ascent, there was a slope of frozen snow leading to the chimney that we roped up for (2 pitches). There was also another snowfield above the first section. We left axes behind and did fine without them.

The Winter Chimney can also be approached from the Winter Route gulley.

Route Description

The Winter Chimney starts at the ramp on the right side of the chimney. Climb up the ramp then traverse into the gulley above (5.5). Continue up the gulley into another chimney (4th). Up the chimney (5.5). Continue up the chimney then ascend the rightmost ramp, up and left (5.7). Up a chimney (5.3). Up a corner into a very loose chimney, belay in a groove (5.8). Up a squeeze chimney, then out right around a block (5.8). Up the face to the top (5.5).
The pitches were full length.

Descend the east slopes (class 2) back to your car.

Essential Gear

Climbing gear:
1 set stoppers
TCUs to #1, 2, 3
1 set rigid friends up to #4
#6-11 Hexes
50m rope

Miscellaneous Info

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