Becca di Luseney Normal Route from Biv. Reboulaz
Becca di Luseney m 3504 is a beautiful mountain in shape of pyramid located in the Pennine Alps, Aosta Valley, on the watershed amongs the Valpelline, the Valtournanche and the Valloon of Saint Barthélemy. The Normal route to summit this peak starts from the Valloon of Saint Barthélemy; it's an interesting mixed course on a mountain not too well known, a very fascinating and exciting climb, also in reason of the wild environment and the fine landscape. The route needs to be attended very early in the season, when the gully and the final ice wall are not too icy and well covered with snow.
First ascent: Adams Reilly and the alpine guides Jean Antoine Carrel and Henry Charlet, 1866 August 2nd
From Torino-Aosta Highway exit Nus (m 529, a few km from Aosta), enter the town and follow the signposts to Saint Barthélemy; follow the valley and turn right in a bend just before Lignan m 1633, following the road towards the alp of Praz m 1737 (27 km from Aosta). Cars cannot continue beyond the village, so leave the motor just before Praz and walk on the farm road that enters the valley, reaching the alps of Vallorsière and Champlaisant m 1927 and then almost on level the bridge over the river Saint Barthélemy. Leaving the branch to the Sanctuary of Cuney on the left, follow the path that leads to Alpe Crottes m. 2389, where the path forks. The right trail goes to the Finestra di Tsan, which leads in Valtournenche. Ignore this path and follow the left one, rising with long hairpins towards the basin of Luseney, a grassy plateau where you will find the Luseney Lake and the beautiful bivouac Luca Reboulaz m 2565 (about 3 30 h from Praz), in front of which there is a fountain.
Difficulty: PD+ (Alpine) - II grade (rocky section), 45° the ice-snow section
Difference in level: 940 m. from the Bivouac Luca Reboulaz
A mixed climb, alternating steep snow slopes and rocky steps on the summit crest. When the Northern slope is icy, it should not be underestimated
From the bivouac leave the lake on your left and continue heading to the obvious and steep grassy slope that leads into a rocky gully, climb it without difficulty until you reach the upper basin. Climb the long scree and debris slope to reach a snowy gully (frequently icy in late summer) that descends from above, climb it with stretches of snow and other mixed passages to reach the Luseney Col m 3162.
“Alpi Pennine Volume II” by Gino Buscaini - Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI