Becca di Luseney Normal route

Becca di Luseney Normal route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.87029°N / 7.49250°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: PD + (Alpine Scale)
Sign the Climber's Log


Becca di Luseney Normal Route from Biv. Reboulaz

Becca di Luseney m 3504 is a beautiful mountain located in the Pennine Alps, Aosta Valley, on the watershed amongst the Valpelline, the Valtournanche and the Valloon of Saint Barthélemy. The Normal route to summit this peak in shape of pyramid is rising from the Valloon of Saint Barthélemy; it's an interesting mixed course on a mountain not too well known, a very fascinating and exciting climb, also in reason of the wild environment and the fine landscape. The route needs to be attended very early in the season, when the gully and the final ice wall are not too icy and well covered with snow.

First ascent: Adams Reilly and the alpine guides Jean Antoine Carrel and Henry Charlet, 1866 August 2nd

Becca di Luseney from Ghiacciaio di Cian

Becca di Luseney from Ghiacciaio di Cian

Getting There

From Torino-Aosta Highway exit Nus (m 529, a few km from Aosta), enter the town and follow the signposts to Saint Barthélemy; follow the valley and turn right in a bend just before Lignan m 1633, following the road towards the alp of Praz m 1737 (27 km from Aosta). Cars cannot continue beyond the village, so leave the motor just before Praz and walk on the farm road that enters the valley, reaching the alps of Vallorsière and Champlaisant m 1927 and then almost on level the bridge over the river Saint Barthélemy. Leaving the branch to the Sanctuary of Cuney on the left, follow the path that leads to Alpe Crottes m. 2389, where the path forks. The right trail goes to the Finestra di Tsan, which leads in Valtournenche. Ignore this path and follow the left one, rising with long hairpins towards the basin of Luseney, a grassy plateau where you will find the Luseney Lake and the beautiful bivouac Luca Reboulaz m 2565 (about 3 30 h from Praz), in front of which there is a fountain.

Route description

Difficulty: PD+ (Alpine) - II grade (rocky section), 45° the snow section Difference in level: 940 m. from the Bivouac Luca Reboulaz

A mixed climb, alternating steep snow slopes and rocky steps on the summit crest. When the Northern slope is icy, it should not be underestimated

Becca di Luseney from Dome de Cian

Becca di Luseney from Dome de Cian

From the bivouac leave the lake on your left and continue heading to the obvious and steep grassy slope that leads into a rocky gully, climb it without difficulty until you reach the upper basin. Climb the long scree and debris slope to reach a snowy gully (frequently icy in late summer) that descends from above, climb it with stretches of snow and other mixed passages to reach the Luseney Col m 3162.

Becca di Luseney seen from Dôme de Cian

Becca di Luseney from Dôme de Cian

Becca di Luseney Northern slope

Northern slope

Becca di Luseney, rocky gully on the summit ridge

Rock gully on the summit ridge

From the col head to the Valpelline side, crossing the Luseney Glacier slightly towards right to attack the steep North face (45°), exit it to the left just before its end, then head to the right to get the rocky ridge and mixed debris and snow, reaching the top quoting 3504 meters, where it is placed a cross.
Beautiful view of all the peaks of the Saint Barthélemy Valley and the Valpelline. Descent: reversing the same route

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, axe and crampons, a couple of quick protections and quickdraws, a couple of rings of rope

Red tape

The approach and the climb are located in isolated and wild places. Pay attention to the banning of cars beyond Praz.
Dome de Cian and Aiguille de Cian seen from Becca di Luseney

Dome de Cian and Aiguille de Cian seen from Becca di Luseney

Where to stay

Bivacco Luca Reboulaz Typical alpine building in masonry and stones of the place mainly built by volunteers, inaugurated in the summer 1993 and dedicated to the memory of Luca Reboulaz, fallen prematurely on Becca di Luseney. Set on two levels, a kitchen area on the ground floor and a room dormitory upstairs, both equipped.
Opening Times: All year round, unguarded Number of beds: 24 Kitchen: the bivouac has a local kitchen with gas stove where you can prepare meals Water in the nearby lake or in the fountain in front of the bivouac Difficulty: E Hiking Check-out: Village Praz (1777m) Altitude: 2575 m Difference in level: 798 m Duration of hike: about hours 3:30 from Praz Property: private family Reboulaz

When to climb

The best months to climb Becca di Luseney are June and July


Becca di Luseney map


“Alpi Pennine Volume II” by Gino Buscaini - Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI Maps: “Cervino-Matterhorn and Monte Rosa” – IGC 1:50.000 “Becca di Luseney” F 29 – IGM 1.25.000 “Breuil-Cervinia/Zermatt” n. 87 – Kompass 1:50.000

Meteo Forecast

Meteo Valle d'Aosta



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