Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Location Lat/Lon: 46.38130°N / 9.90670°E
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 18, 2005
I climbed Bernina alone at late July,2005 from the Italian side.
I arrived to Campo Morro late at night but as my plan was to sleep all the time in my tent I didn't stay there but started to search for a suitable tent-place.
After I left the parking place ; crossed the dam and went down to the valley I found the best place for sleeping. There is a huge field which couldn't be better for a starting place. :)
On the first night there was an extremely big storm but succesfully my tent was tough enough to stand it. I couldn't sleep much but at least I was happy that I have this storm down here in the safe valley.
I started the next day by drying my stuff and then I started to climb with my heavy backpack. I took food for around 4 days but if I had to spend there one additional day then I would have standed it even for 5 days ; the tent ; clothes ; sleeping bag ; crampons, ice axe and all the other climbing equipments... My backpack was my castle :) After I had dried my things packed everything well, I left the valley from the shadows of the dam and started to ascent through the forest. The track through the forest was not hard at all and after some time I got up to the ridge where the path didn't ascend anymore. Nice walking as I left the forest and the terrain became rather rocky and empty. I recognized Rifuggio Carate and tough it didn't seem far in fact it was.
After leaving the hut it's not far to notice Marinelli hut up on the rocks but I still needed around an hour to get up there from the lakes. I took a small brake at the hut (Rifuggio Marinelli) then left it to tent on the glaccier. I found a suitable place at around 3200-3300 meters. Believe me, tenting on that ice field is more than awsome, more than beautiful... it was one of my nicest experience. To watch the sunset in the Alps from my tent, to adore the eternal beauty of the Alps and to feel the harmony of the mountains was undescribable.
I woke up at 4 'o clock on the next day and after I had eaten something I left the tent to climb the peak. I took only the most neccesary things, like : peak-chocolate :)) , some food , water , headlamp,gloves,ice axe, crampons and the camera.
I reached Marco e Rosa hut in around 1,5 hours with the first lights of the day. It was beautiful !!!! Then, after I had taken a break, I continued the snow climbing. Shortly after I got to the final rocks which are not hard (III) but I still felt it would have been better to climb together with someone. So I concentrated as much as I could to every of my small steps upwards. Finally I got through the first rocks and then I needed to got over on the ridge which is the sharpest I have ever seen. After the ridge came the final rock-climbing part up to the peak. It wasn't hard and soon I was on the top of Bernina. The panorama from the peak is unspeakable so I can recommend it to everyone ! :)
The way back was even harder but with the small help of God I made it.
I don't know how it looks from the other side but from Italy it is long and exhauasting to get up to Bernina but it is definitely worth all of your efforts ! :)
Have a nice day !


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steste - Aug 27, 2006 6:51 pm - Voted 10/10

Well done...

...Aquariusz. But you wrote to have taken the camera with you. I'm waiting for the pics.


aquariusz - Aug 28, 2006 5:28 pm - Hasn't voted

hey :)

I posted some... I hope you can check and open them...
if you got some difficulties with it just contact me and we'll figure out something :)
Have a nice day Steste !

Viewing: 1-2 of 2



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