Piz Bernina 4049m

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Location Lat/Lon: 46.38910°N / 9.94400°E
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Jun 18, 2005
Activities Activities: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Summer


Piz Bernina-exceeding: Bianco ridge - Piz Bianco 3995m - Piz Bernina 4049m- Spalla ridge

Start in the Tschierva Hut 2583m. Along a fixed rope route with ladder scions and steel wire ropes up to Fuorcla Prievlusa at 3430m. Then you reach the most beautiful fin of the alpes called Bianco ridge. The very narrow and exposed firn leads to the Piz Bianco at 3995m. Now the firn changes to be cliffy (climbing places at 3rd degree) and leads to the Piz Bernina at 4049m. The descent over the shorter and also narrow firn, where two further abseiling places follow. Back underneath the Bellavista, over the fin of Fortezza downward climbing to Morteratsch. It is about a 13 hour mountain marathon! The Piz Bernina is the only 4000m from the canton Grison (Graubünden) and the only one in the eastern alps.

Difficulty: ZS / III+

Route: Chamanna Tschierva - Fuorcla Prievlusa - Bianco ridge - PizAlv/Pizzo Bianco - Piz Bernina - Spalla ridge - La Spedla - Fortezza - Morteratsch

Link to the Piz Bernina: Link to the Piz Bernina trip

Written and climbed by Cyrill
If you have any question, do not hesitate to contact me: cyrill74@gmx.ch

Piz Bernina 4049m and Bianco ridgePiz Bernina 4049m and Bianco ridge
Piz Bernina 4049mPiz Bernina 4049m


- Tschierva hut 2583m: Tschierva Hut 2583m

- Rifugio Marco e Rosa 3609m

Tschierva Hut  2584mTschierva Hut 2584m


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Bernina GroupTrip Reports
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