Biely výlom (Cez výlom) Velická stena

Velická stena (2230 m) in the massif of Velické Granáty. This route is located in the western face of Velická stena, it's called Cez výlom or Biely výlom, named according the specific overhanging structure in the middle of the wall. Route is graded V in the UIAA grade. First climbed in 1964 by Rewaj brothers, Z. Prusisz and T. Piotrowski. Very popular classic route with fixed anchor points.
Topo can be found here: Cez výlom and here: Nr. 5

Getting There

The starting point is Tatranska Polianka, from where you can easily follow the marked route to Sliezsky dom and from that place to Poľský hrebeň. Right above Večný dážď - training ground for dry-tooling, turn right to a deep gully - dangerous when wet due to the wet rocks and grasses. Follow the gully to the place, from where you can see a big cave under the wall, and here turn right again and scramble through more grasses to a small saddle, where you will find first gold bolt marking the start of the route.

Route Description

From the saddle turn left and through a small overhanging rock climb to the narrow and short ridge leading to the base of the wall. The route is quite clear when using topo and pitches are very short. They are two a slightly more difficult alternatives along the route, but the overall difficulty isn't exceeding V UIAA (5.7). Biely výlom is distinctive white rock formation, caused by rock falling, so you can't miss it. The most difficult part is in the upper section, where you have to cross slabs, but since this route is very well protected, there is no real problem. After reaching the top, we decided to descend via Granátova lávka to Medvedie sedlo and back to Sliezsky dom.

Essential Gear

Essential climbing gear. Nuts, friends, abalaks, 50 m rope

External Links

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Images

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