Black Magic Poodle

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 34.31040°N / 116.8798°W
Route Type: Sport Climbing, Toprope
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required: Less than two hours
Difficulty: moderate
Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)
Number of Pitches: 1
Grade: I

Approach

From the parking area at the end of road 3N07, jump low wire fence and follow well-worn footpath north, passing exotic rock formations mainly on your left. Coyote Crag is approx a 10 minute walk through boulder-strewn sparse pine and sage fields; take care not to squash the many micro-toads hopping along the sandy path! You will pass two small formations on the left, the third will be a eye-popping conglumeration - Lost Orbit Wall; continue on path a few more minutes, easing to your right on the path and Coyote Crag will come into view over the tree tops within moments; at this point you will be scrambling over boulders to reach the base of the wall. This is a southeast facing wall, enjoy the morning sun on well protected sporty routes!

Route Description

Black Magic Poodle is a grunt climb consisting mainly of sharp edged flakes. Although it appears fairly vertical, you will find the crux at a bulge (which is more than vertical) between the 6th and 7th bolt. Fear not, there are plenty a razor holds to rest upon after 3 or 4 high-tech moves, depending on your height, and success is only a bolt away to a chain anchor.

Essential Gear

50m rope
8 quick draws
2 runners or cordelette with 'biners
one locking 'biner
..... and plenty of chalk!