First climbers went to Buoux in 1958. It became one of the top cliffs in France, in the eighties with routes opened by the best climbers at the time :
Jean-Claude Droyer, Patrick Edlinger, Jacky Godoffe...
Most of the French and European climbers came to fight with the major level 8 routes. Some weeks around 1000 climbers were visiting the cliff.
Nowadays fewer people go there, however it remains a fabulous site, with a very specific rock.
You can climb there almost all year long.
Note that there are only a few routes under level 5c.
A great cliff for good climbers !
Getting There and Staying...
, drive East on road N7 for a few kilometers up to Chartreuse de Bonpas
Keep straight ahead on road D22, which then becomes road N100.
Turn right on road D36 towards Bonnieux
. Shortly after this village, turn left on road D943 until you reach Buoux, a few kilometers later.
57 kms in total.
Closest camp site :
Camping Caravaning Municipal
Tel : 04 90 75 86 14
Buoux is a very wide climbing site with 31 parts to discover.
You will find routes with up to 5 pitches. Usually around 30m per pitch.
It's all modern equipment.
FACE OUEST > 23 routes from 6b to 8b
RATIERE > 9 routes from 5c to 6c
LA DERIVE > 15 routes from 5b to 7c
SONGE > 10 routes from 6b to 7b+
AUTOROUTE > 11 routes from 5c to 8a
AIGUEBRUN (2-4 pitches) > 22 routes from 5b to 7a
EMORO > 13 routes from 5b to 6c
BEDA (1-4 pitches) > 23 routes 5b to 7a
DSF (1-4 pitches) > 19 routes from 5b to 7b+
PEPSICOMANE (1-4 pitches) > 19 routes from 5b to 7b+
PUBIS (1-3 pitches) > 10 routes from 5c to 7a
OK CAROLE > (1-2 pitches) > 11 routes from 5c to 7b
GVB (1-2 pitches) > 15 routes from 5c to 7b+
PGF (1-2 pitches) > 12 routes from 5b to 7b+
MUR ZAPPA > 24 routes from 5c to 7b
LES DIAMANTS (1-2 pitches) > 20 routes from 6b to 7c
SALINAS (1-2 pitches) > 21 routes from 6b to 7b
FAKIR (1-4 pitches) > 29 routes from 5b to 8a
EXCALIBUR (1-5 pitches) > 31 routes from 5c to 8b
SCORPION (1-2 pitches) > 15 routes from 5c to 8a
LA PLAGE (1-3 pitches) > 22 routes from 6b to 8b+
PILIER DES FOURMIS (1-4 pitches) > 11 routes from 5b to 8b
BAROUILLES (1-2 pitches) > 16 routes from 5b to 6c+
LA CROISETTE (1-2 pitches) > 22 routes from 6b to 7c+
LES DEVERS > 15 routes from 6c to 8b+
TCF (1-2 pitches) > 22 routes from 6a to 7c+
REVE (1-2 pitches) > 13 routes from 6a to 8a
NOMBRIL > 9 routes from 6a to 7b+
LE STYX > 18 routes from 6b to 7c+
NO MAN'S LAND > 13 routes from 7a to 8a
BOUT DU MONDE > 14 routes from 7a to 8c
Books, Maps & Weather
The best guidebook is :
Buoux, Topo-Guide d'Escalade
The best map is :
IGN Apt / PNR du Luberon
And for Weather forecast :
Meteo France > Buoux