Campomoro climbing area - Valmalenco

Campomoro climbing area - Valmalenco

Page Type Page Type: Area/Range
Location Lat/Lon: 46.30385°N / 9.92996°E
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 6562 ft / 2000 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Campomoro climbing area

The artificial basins of Alpe Gera and Campo Moro are located in Valmalenco, Municipality of Lanzada, and constitute not only a satisfying climbing destination, but also a starting point for interesting walks around the lakes and high altitude ascents in the overlying Bernina Group. Located in the extraordinary high mountain environment created by the peaks of the Bernina Group and the spectacular lakes of Campo Moro and Gera, the walls of Campo Moro and Val Poschiavina are a wide and interesting summer climbing area located at an average altitude around the 2000 meters of altitude at the base of the north side of Monte Spondascia, where it flows into the two artificial lakes.

 

Campomoro Lake
Campomoro Lake

 

 

A privileged and peaceful place where you can climb during the hot summer months. The climbing sectors are varied and, with the exception of a single-pitch crag, they are all located along the right bank (left orodgraphic) of the two artificial lakes, which are separated by the Alpe Gera dam that encloses the upper lake. The location of proximity to the lakes makes the place and the climbing particularly spectacular. The rock is a rough serpentine, a type of metamorphic rock very common in this sector of the Lombard Alps, Valmalenco and Val Masino.

 

Alpe Gera lake and Bernina Group
Alpe Gera lake and Bernina Group

 

 

Getting There

The starting point to reach Campomoro is the town of Sondrio, from which it is 30 km.

Main single pitches climbing sectors

Falesie Zoia 

Near the Zoia Refuge there are various nice single pitch sectors, which can be quickly reached from the refuge, at an altitude of over 2000 m. Serpentine walls, fantastic rock with exceptional grip, recommended for experienced climbers (minimum difficulty 6a, but most of the pitches are from 7a upwards):

- Zoia Bassa First Sector SE
- Zoia Bassa First Sector SW
- Zoia Second Sector
- Zoia Alta Third Sector
- Zoia Nuova SE
- Zoia Nuova SW

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. The road is close to private cars after the parking lot near Refuge Zoia. 

When to climb

A classic summer place. Best season goes from June to September. The NW exposure suggests climbing from late morning to all afternoon.

 

Annotated view of Southern Bernina group seen from Val Poschiavina
Annotated view of Southern Bernina group seen from Val Poschiavina

Where to stay

Rifugio Zoia

Nice refuge located at the base of the Campo Moro dams.

Rifugio Poschiavino

Meteo

Switzerland Forecast

Meteo Lombardia

Campomoro area map
Campomoro area map

 

Guidebooks and maps

"Bernina" - Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

Bernina guidebook

 

 

 

Maps

"Bernina Valmalenco" - L'Escursionista 1:25000

"Bernina" -  Kompass  1:50000

"Livigno Bormio Val Viola Val Fraele" - Tabacco 1:25000

 

Bernina Valmalenco map
Bernina Tabacco map
Bernina Kompass map

 

External Links

The beta of the climbing routes: VieAugusto/ValMalenco



Related 

Friends

Related objects are relevant to each other in some way, but they don't form a parent/child relationship. Also, they don't necessarily share the same parent.