Page Type Page Type: Area/Range
Location Lat/Lon: 46.38069°N / 9.90692°E
Activities Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 13291 ft / 4051 m
Sign the Climber's Log

a small preliminary remark ...

the goal of this page is to introduce some starting knowledge of this very fine group, one of the best in the Alps, joining the peaceful southern valley, full of flora, with the wild high walls rarely climbed (only 2 routes on Piz Bernina and the 3 spurs and the normal route of Piz Palù are often climbed)
3 big important glaciers give to this area a real appearence of "high mountain environment"

On Italian side you can find some, sometimes busy, refuges where food is always a good reason to make a stop
On Swiss side you can enjoy a "fin de siecle" trip using the carriage bringing, along the Val Roseg, toward the fine meadows under the glacier ..

Here you will find only the main geographic and logistic info: the complete description of the summits should belong only to summit pages

the highest summits, in the central range, from South
the eastern side of the group
the Val Roseg (NW side of the group) from Piz Corvatsch

Val Roseg panorama near Hotel Roseg


Bernina Group belongs to Alpi Retiche Occidentali (Raethian Western Alps)
It stands on the main watershed of the Alps, oriented W-E, starts from the Passo del Muretto (2562m), Eastern limit of Val Masino Alps) and ends to the Bernina Pass (2304m).
This group hosts some important glaciers and the highest summits east of Pennine Alps.

Geologically speaking the area is made of rocks of Permian-Carboniferous Era, hosting thick layers of Granites, Diorites and Syenites that can give a climber the pleasure of solid and coarse rock.

this group is all made for old style classic climbing, differences in elevation are never small, no roads, no comfortable accesses, no modern routes ...

It can be defined in 3 different sections + 1 subgroup :
  • the Western range : starting from passo del Muretto and ending with the Passo Scerscen
  • the Central Range : from Passo Scerscen to Forcola di Cresta Guzza
  • the Eastern Range : from Forcola di Cresta Guzza to Bernina Pass
  • and the small, detached, subgroup of Pizzo Scalino
    Bernina group - labeled


    Bernina group map

    Western range

    starting from passo del Muretto and ending with the Passo Scerscen
    this ridge is the Northern border of the basin of Chiesa Valmalenco and Caspoggio

    main ridge

    between the Val Malenco (S) and the Val Fedoz and Val Fex (N)
    immediately over the Passo del Muretto the ridge grows with the :
  • Monte Muretto (3104m)
  • Monte dell'Oro (3155m)and
  • Sassa di Fora (3363m)
  • Pizzo delle Tre Mogge (3447m)

    secondary ridges

    between the Val Forno and the Val Fedoz
    from Monte Muretto to the north, starts the Piz da la Margna ridge hosting, from S to N, the
  • Piz Fedoz (3190m)
  • Piz da la Margna (3158m)

    between the Val Fedoz and the Val Fex
    from Sassa di Fora to the north a ridge hosting 2 fine summits :
  • Piz Guz (3168m)
  • Piz Led (3087m)

    between the Val Malenco and the Scerscen glacier
    from Pizzo delle Tre Mogge to the East a ridge with 2 first noticeable summmits :
  • Pizzo Malenco (3438m)
  • Sassa d'Entova (3329m)

    the ridge of Entovafrom left Sassa d'Entova, Pizzo Malenco, Pizzo Tre Mogge (the photo has been shot from Bocchetta delle Forbici (East)

    this ridge goes down with the Sasso Nero (2921m) to the Monte Motta (2336) whose S slopes host the higher part of the skiarea of Chiesa Valmalenco

    Central range

    after the Passo Scerscen (wherefrom spreading, toward east, the first important glacier of the south side of the group : the Ghiacciaio di Scerscen, many years ago there was a summer ski area now abandoned ...) the main ridge grows with a very fine sequence of summits characterized by rocky steep walls to the South and shining ice slopes on their northern side

    main ridge

    between the Scerscen glacier (S). the Val Roseg and the Val Morteratsch (N)
    Bernina Group - central range from SWthe rocky south big wall of Glüschaint subgroup seen from forcella d'Entova

    these are, from W to E :
  • Punta di Forcola Alta (3395m)
  • Piz Glüschaint (3594m)
  • Cima Sondrio (3542m
  • La Sella (3540m)
  • i Gemelli (3500-3501m)
  • Punta Sella (3513)
    this ridge, also known as Glüschaint subgroup, ends to the Passo Sella (3268m)
    Bernina Group - central range from SSEthe south side of the Glüschaint subgroup, the Sella pass and the Piz Roseg

    the Passo Sella is the starting point of the high ridge hosting the 3 giants of this area :

    Piz Roseg and Monte Scerscen S wallsthe huge south walls of Piz Roseg and Monte Scerscen

  • Piz Roseg (3936m)
  • Monte Scérscen (3971m)
  • Piz Bernina (4051m)
    the cross of these 3 summits, from W to E, along the ridge, is one of the most demanding climb in the whole Alps
    Bernina Group central range from Nthe Crast'Alva (Biancograt), Monte Scerscen and Piz Roseg north walls from the summit of Piz Morteratsch

    Piz Bernina - northern ridgeCosta di Fortezza, Piz Bernina, Piz Prievlus, Piz Morteratsch and Piz Tschierva from the Morteratsch glacier, little below the Diavolezza

    the ridge now goes down, toward south to the Forcola di Cresta Güzza

    secondary ridges

    between the Val Fex and the Val Roseg
    from Glüschaint toward N an important ridge, starting with the Chapütschin (3386m) and going down with a sequence of minor summits, ending with the Piz Corvatsch (3451m), famous skiarea of Saint Moritz

    between the Val Roseg and the Val Morteratsch
    from Pizzo Bernina toward north starts an important ridge hosting, in sequence, the
  • Crast'Alva aka Pizzo Bianco (3995m)
  • Piz Prievlus (3613m)
  • Piz Morteratsch (3754m)
    the Bernina Group - central parta view from South

    then the ridge becomes less important hosting some minor summits :
  • Piz Tschierva (3550m)
  • Piz Misaun (3249m)
  • Piz Chalchagn (3154m)

    Eastern range

    ... and the giants go on ...

    main ridge

    between the Val Morteratsch (N) and the Val Lanterna (S)
    starting with
  • the smart summit of Cresta Güzza (3869m),
  • the huge Piz d'Argent (3945m)
    east of Piz d'Argent the second summit of the Group, the
  • Piz Zupò (3995m) and the fine, easy
  • Monte Bellavista (3922m)
    Morteratscha view from Boval Hutte

    Piz Palù and Bellavista from BovalhuttePiz Palù and Bellavista from Bovalhutte

    after these summits there is the starting point of one of the most famous subgroup of the Alps : the Palù subgroup whose summits are :
  • Pizzi di Palù a fantastic triptic (3912m)
  • Piz Cambrena (3620m) east of Palù
  • Piz Varuna (3453m) - SE of Palù
    Piz Palù from DiavolezzaPiz Palù from Diavolezza

    Cime di Musella (Western-Central-Eastern)- Torrione Brasile - Cima di Caspoggiofrom left Cime di Musella (western-Central-Eastern)- Torrione Brasile - Cima di Caspoggio

    secondary ridges

    between the Scerscen and the Fellaria glaciers
    from Piz d'Argent a smart ridge goes down toward south, hosting some fine rocky summits :
  • Punta Marinelli (3182m)
  • Cima di Fellaria (3080m)
  • Cima di Caspoggio (3136m)
    and the 3 fine summits called Cime di Musella (3079-3088-3094m)
    the ridge ends with the Monte delle Forbici (2910m)
    Cime di Musellathe NW side of the Cime di Musella, on the left side the Vedretta di Caspoggio

    Scalino subgroupthe Pizzo Scalino subgroup

    between the Morteratsch glacier, the Palù glacier and the Bernina valley
    from Piz Palù, in all the directions, the ridges go down hosting only minor summits with low importance

    Scalino subgroup

    bordered by Val Poschiavina, Val Malenco, Val Lanterna and Val di Campo Moro, this subgroup (not a simple ridge) starts from passo di Canciano (2454m) and immediatly grows to the main summit
  • Pizzo Scalino (3323m)

    [img:175312:aligncenter:medium:the Pizzo Scalino subgroup]

    from this summit 3 ridges go :
    toward SW - the ridge of Acquanera
    toward S - the ridge of Painale - Vetta di Ron
    toward SE - the ridge of Sareggio - Combolo
    these ridges, ending to the bottom of Valtellina, are made of very wild and forgotten summits : the differences in elevations are high and paths are missing.

    Logistical Info

    Two main accesses to this area :

    from ITALY - Valtellina

    the road from Sondrio to Chiesa Valmalenco brings you in the center of the group and there you have 2 different choices :

    for the Western range follow the road toward Chiareggio
    along this road there are the starting point for :
  • the mule track to Passo del Muretto
  • the path to Rifugio Longoni
  • the road (abandoned) to Rifugio Entova (3000m) and the following Bivacco Colombo (3140m)

    for the Central range follow the road for Campo Moro
    near the dam of Campo Moro the starting point of the paths to
  • Rifugio Carate (2636m)
  • Rifugio Marinelli (2813m)
  • Bivacco Parravicini (3183m)
  • Rifugio Marco e Rosa (3597m)

    for the Eastern range follow the road for Campo Moro
    near the dam of Campo Moro the starting point of the paths to
  • Rifugio Bignami (2410m)
  • Bivacco del Sasso Rosso (3546m)

    from SWITZERLAND - Engadina

    along the road joining Bernina Pass-Saint Moritz-Maloja pass the accesses to the valley entering in the N side of the group

    for the Western range
    from Sils the cablecar to Piz Corvatsch or directly to the summits

    for the Central range
    starting from Pontresina and walking along the Val Roseg to get the
  • Chamanna Coaz (2385m)
  • Chamanna Tschierva (2573m)
    starting from the rail station of Morteratsch, along the Val Morteratsch, to get the
  • Chamanna Boval (2495m)

    for the Eastern range
    starting from the rail station of Morteratsch, along the Val Morteratsch, to get the
  • Chamanna Boval (2495m)
    starting about 5 km before (arriving from CH) or beyond (arriving from I) the cable car to
  • Rifugio Diavolezza (2973m) ... one of the most expensive site in the Alps ....


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