Capitol Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 154

Kiefer - Jan 27, 2006 4:09 pm

Route Climbed: Capitol Creek/Knife Ridge Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!

DAM! One of my two scariest moments on a 14er, both times due to the weather. This was actually my 5th attempt on this mountain. Been to the start of the knife ridge twice. I summited by myself. The morning started out with roughly 9 people. See my trip report.

Very intense. The ridge was actually fairly exciting!


climber46 - Nov 26, 2005 6:23 pm

Route Climbed: Captol Ditch Approach Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2005

What a beautiful hike! Camped near Capitol Lake. The next morning the weather was terrible. Clouds and drizzle. Nonetheless, it was not so bad not to continue. My friends and I hoped the weather would change for the better by the time we reached K2. We continued up over the notch between Daly and K2 and into the basin with all the snowfields. Once we made our way higher, we almost mistakenly thought Clark Peak was K2! However, my 6th sense and my compass lead us in the correct direction towards K2. Unfortunately, by the time we were within a short scramble of the summit of K2, the weather was still fickle. We decided to give the weather 45 minutes to break or we would turn around. Well, we did not even have to wait that long! In 15 minutes the weather took a quick turn for the worse! It started raining and sleeting and snowing. The boulders became slick and dangerous and we had to proceed slowly on the rocks until we reached the snowfields. The snowfields had much better footing. We also glissaded down some of them. I even got to use the ski pole self arrest technique once. Cold, wet, and tired, I finally felt like I was out of danger's way once down from the Daly-K2 notch. Later on in the afternoon, Capitol reared its head out of the clouds as if to taunt me. By the time I reached my car at the trailhead, the peak was obscured in clouds again, refusing to say goodbye. I will definitely have to return and attempt this peak again!


Hobbesgirl - Oct 21, 2005 1:33 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 8, 2005  Sucess!

This was the most amazing climb ever! Tons of fun and definitely my favorite mountain thus far!


iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:10 pm

Route Climbed: Knife Ridge Date Climbed: Aug '03  Sucess!

Straight forward climb. Nothing really technical. Long day to do it car-to-car, but fun.


K_G_Wright - Sep 23, 2005 5:04 pm

Route Climbed: Standard Knife Edge Date Climbed: August 1998  Sucess!

This was my third attempt (the first two I was turned around on the Knife Edge by weather fronts). Started from the lake at 3 AM and was on the summit just after 9'ish. One of my most memorable days! The pic I submitted is of my climbing partner as we crossed back across the Knife on our descent. When we got back to the lake, we watched as a paraglider opened on top and descended into Aspen in style.


illegal_smile - Sep 19, 2005 12:14 pm

Route Climbed: Standard Knife Ridge Date Climbed: September 18, 2005  Sucess!

Friend and I started around 6 or so to go do the NW Buttress. However, the wind was ummm quite strong and the rock was ummm quite cold so we went for the fun route across the knife ridge. Very cool! The toughest part IMO (and maybe we did this wrong) was around K2. I felt more exposed on that stuff climbing around than on the knife ridge! I"ll be back capitol!

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Sep 19, 2005 11:40 am

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge aka The Knife Ridge Date Climbed: September 18, 2005  Sucess!

Summited with Brian Litz, Matt Wentz, Marie Pavlovsky, Rom McGuffin & Wendy Durst.


doumall - Sep 5, 2005 7:53 pm

Route Climbed: knife edge ridge Date Climbed: September 3, 2005  Sucess!

Drove the night before, slept in the back of my truck. Started hiking solo from Capitol Creek TH at 3:30, reached Capitol lake in 2 hrs, summit in 5.5 hrs. Didnt see anyone else until I neared the knife edge on my descent. Round trip of 9.5 hrs. Very, very cool peak. My favorite Colorado 14er and # 54/58 for me!


Gareth - Aug 9, 2005 11:39 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: August 8, 2005  Sucess!

#2 for me on this one. 2 for 2 tries. I just had to come back and do it all again and make sure the first climb wasn’t a fluke. A lot more snow to go up this time.


bc44caesar - Aug 7, 2005 4:20 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: 7 Aug 2005  Sucess!

Got a late start (~8am), but made it to the lake in 2hrs and the summit in another 3.5hrs. The weather held off all day. Made it car to car in 10hrs. Lots of people up there!! The Knife Edge and final ridge looked intimidating from K2, but turned out to be pretty easy and quite fun!

Larry V

Larry V - Jan 9, 2005 9:27 pm

Route Climbed: Capitol Creek approach, northeast ridge Date Climbed: August 1994, August 1998  Sucess!

In 1994, climbed with Mike, Chip, and Aaron P. Wet hike up to the camp site below the lake, then sunny all day for the actual climb. K2 and the knife-edge was monumental for me -- had to leave my fear of heights behind. Capitol instantly because my favorite climb. I also regard Capitol Peak as the most beautiful 14er in Colorado.

In 1998, climbed by the same route again, with Alan this time. Twice is enough, with so many other mountains beckoning, but Capitol Peak remains my favorite.


rob_runkle - Aug 1, 2004 3:47 pm

Route Climbed: Capitol Creek TH Date Climbed: July 25, 2004  Sucess!

This was the best, for sure!! Solid class 4, with some class 5.


Gareth - Aug 1, 2004 7:50 am

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 28, 2004  Sucess!

I made it up Capitol Peak, my fourth Fourteener! This was my first attempt at the peak. I kind of feel bad that I made it up when others have made several unsuccessful attempts and still haven’t gained the summit. I was surprised to find that the incredible exposure didn’t bother me. After the climb the afternoon hike out sure was fun carrying a loaded pack!


Saintgrizzly - Jul 29, 2004 2:16 am

Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: September, 1994  Sucess!

My favorite Colorado mountain! After two aborted attempts with Aaron Johnson--one failing due to heavy snow on the mountain, the other a result of running out of time (but we compensated with a highly successful late afternoon loaf on top of K2)--returned on the above date with Aaron and Mark Anderson for a successful climb. The wonderful approach--through what seems the world's largest aspen grove--with views of Capitol's terrific north face does nothing but whet the appetite and get the adrenaline flowing! Our stint from K2 on was in somewhat chilly but good weather (in fact, snow flurries and gusty wind as we returned across the knife edge, but no need for ropes). A memorable trip highlight occurred on our return to Denver, when, after all the hours being folded in the jeep, I got to watch Aaron try getting out of the vehicle and "walk" to the house. Many thanks for the visual memory, my friend!


xskier77 - Jul 19, 2004 1:17 am

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 18, 2004  Sucess!

Used to West Snowmass Creek approach and it proved to be a difficult approach. Our plan was to bivy on the summit of Capitol but the approach involved alot of bushwacking and off trail hiking that we were spent by the time we almost hit the summit of K2. We found a great bivy site that someone had built up with a nice rock wall around it and very smooth dirt ground. Day two climbed Capitol and was able to walk the entire knife edge. Fun climbing and the rock was surpisingly very solid. Although I did manage to knock loose a huge slab and thank god nobody was below me when the slab went.

ctruscot - Jul 11, 2004 8:10 pm

Route Climbed: The Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 5 and 6, 2004  Sucess!

Went up Capitol Monday and Tuesday with a guide.

That mountain is no walk in the park and I was glad to be with

a guide because I sure would not want to run off that mountain nor

find the route in a storm. I thought it was hard enough with

someone who knew the route and with good weather. But that's me.

See trip report


DaveC - May 20, 2004 9:15 pm

Route Climbed: k2/knife edge Date Climbed: july 01  Sucess!

Probably the hardest 14er overall. Knife edge was overrated, but the summit block past it, and the K2 downclimb, were noteworthy. Long day, and well worth it. Tight but nice campsite near capitol lake.


sbkelley - May 12, 2004 3:41 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast (Knife) Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

What a cool mountain - everything from the approach to the peak from Capitol Creek to the campsites below the mountain near the lake to the climb itself was unforgettable! Definitely going to have to go back and do this one again!

Ryan Kowalski

Ryan Kowalski - Apr 19, 2004 5:07 pm

Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: July 5, 2003  Sucess!

We decided to do this from the trailhead in a day. Wow, what a long day it was. Left at 3 AM, got back around 4 or 5 PM. A LOOOONNNNGGG day. Knife-edge isn't too bad, but the exposure is still amazing. One of the neatest natural features in CO.


Nelson - Sep 4, 2003 4:30 pm

Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: August 31, 2003  Sucess!

What an awesome mountain! It was kind to us, and I reached the summit on my first visit. Hopefully not the last.

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