DAM! One of my two scariest moments on a 14er, both times due to the weather. This was actually my 5th attempt on this mountain. Been to the start of the knife ridge twice. I summited by myself. The morning started out with roughly 9 people. See my trip report.
Very intense. The ridge was actually fairly exciting!
What a beautiful hike! Camped near Capitol Lake. The next morning the weather was terrible. Clouds and drizzle. Nonetheless, it was not so bad not to continue. My friends and I hoped the weather would change for the better by the time we reached K2. We continued up over the notch between Daly and K2 and into the basin with all the snowfields. Once we made our way higher, we almost mistakenly thought Clark Peak was K2! However, my 6th sense and my compass lead us in the correct direction towards K2. Unfortunately, by the time we were within a short scramble of the summit of K2, the weather was still fickle. We decided to give the weather 45 minutes to break or we would turn around. Well, we did not even have to wait that long! In 15 minutes the weather took a quick turn for the worse! It started raining and sleeting and snowing. The boulders became slick and dangerous and we had to proceed slowly on the rocks until we reached the snowfields. The snowfields had much better footing. We also glissaded down some of them. I even got to use the ski pole self arrest technique once. Cold, wet, and tired, I finally felt like I was out of danger's way once down from the Daly-K2 notch. Later on in the afternoon, Capitol reared its head out of the clouds as if to taunt me. By the time I reached my car at the trailhead, the peak was obscured in clouds again, refusing to say goodbye. I will definitely have to return and attempt this peak again!
This was the most amazing climb ever! Tons of fun and definitely my favorite mountain thus far!
Straight forward climb. Nothing really technical. Long day to do it car-to-car, but fun.
This was my third attempt (the first two I was turned around on the Knife Edge by weather fronts). Started from the lake at 3 AM and was on the summit just after 9'ish. One of my most memorable days! The pic I submitted is of my climbing partner as we crossed back across the Knife on our descent. When we got back to the lake, we watched as a paraglider opened on top and descended into Aspen in style.
Friend and I started around 6 or so to go do the NW Buttress. However, the wind was ummm quite strong and the rock was ummm quite cold so we went for the fun route across the knife ridge. Very cool! The toughest part IMO (and maybe we did this wrong) was around K2. I felt more exposed on that stuff climbing around than on the knife ridge! I"ll be back capitol!
Summited with Brian Litz, Matt Wentz, Marie Pavlovsky, Rom McGuffin & Wendy Durst.
Drove the night before, slept in the back of my truck. Started hiking solo from Capitol Creek TH at 3:30, reached Capitol lake in 2 hrs, summit in 5.5 hrs. Didnt see anyone else until I neared the knife edge on my descent. Round trip of 9.5 hrs. Very, very cool peak. My favorite Colorado 14er and # 54/58 for me!
#2 for me on this one. 2 for 2 tries. I just had to come back and do it all again and make sure the first climb wasn’t a fluke. A lot more snow to go up this time.
Got a late start (~8am), but made it to the lake in 2hrs and the summit in another 3.5hrs. The weather held off all day. Made it car to car in 10hrs. Lots of people up there!! The Knife Edge and final ridge looked intimidating from K2, but turned out to be pretty easy and quite fun!
In 1994, climbed with Mike, Chip, and Aaron P. Wet hike up to the camp site below the lake, then sunny all day for the actual climb. K2 and the knife-edge was monumental for me -- had to leave my fear of heights behind. Capitol instantly because my favorite climb. I also regard Capitol Peak as the most beautiful 14er in Colorado.
In 1998, climbed by the same route again, with Alan this time. Twice is enough, with so many other mountains beckoning, but Capitol Peak remains my favorite.
This was the best, for sure!! Solid class 4, with some class 5.
I made it up Capitol Peak, my fourth Fourteener! This was my first attempt at the peak. I kind of feel bad that I made it up when others have made several unsuccessful attempts and still haven’t gained the summit. I was surprised to find that the incredible exposure didn’t bother me. After the climb the afternoon hike out sure was fun carrying a loaded pack!
My favorite Colorado mountain! After two aborted attempts with Aaron Johnson--one failing due to heavy snow on the mountain, the other a result of running out of time (but we compensated with a highly successful late afternoon loaf on top of K2)--returned on the above date with Aaron and Mark Anderson for a successful climb. The wonderful approach--through what seems the world's largest aspen grove--with views of Capitol's terrific north face does nothing but whet the appetite and get the adrenaline flowing! Our stint from K2 on was in somewhat chilly but good weather (in fact, snow flurries and gusty wind as we returned across the knife edge, but no need for ropes). A memorable trip highlight occurred on our return to Denver, when, after all the hours being folded in the jeep, I got to watch Aaron try getting out of the vehicle and "walk" to the house. Many thanks for the visual memory, my friend!
Used to West Snowmass Creek approach and it proved to be a difficult approach. Our plan was to bivy on the summit of Capitol but the approach involved alot of bushwacking and off trail hiking that we were spent by the time we almost hit the summit of K2. We found a great bivy site that someone had built up with a nice rock wall around it and very smooth dirt ground. Day two climbed Capitol and was able to walk the entire knife edge. Fun climbing and the rock was surpisingly very solid. Although I did manage to knock loose a huge slab and thank god nobody was below me when the slab went.
Went up Capitol Monday and Tuesday with a guide.
That mountain is no walk in the park and I was glad to be with
a guide because I sure would not want to run off that mountain nor
find the route in a storm. I thought it was hard enough with
someone who knew the route and with good weather. But that's me.
See trip report
Probably the hardest 14er overall. Knife edge was overrated, but the summit block past it, and the K2 downclimb, were noteworthy. Long day, and well worth it. Tight but nice campsite near capitol lake.
What a cool mountain - everything from the approach to the peak from Capitol Creek to the campsites below the mountain near the lake to the climb itself was unforgettable! Definitely going to have to go back and do this one again!
We decided to do this from the trailhead in a day. Wow, what a long day it was. Left at 3 AM, got back around 4 or 5 PM. A LOOOONNNNGGG day. Knife-edge isn't too bad, but the exposure is still amazing. One of the neatest natural features in CO.
What an awesome mountain! It was kind to us, and I reached the summit on my first visit. Hopefully not the last.