Capitol Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 139

ctruscot - Jul 11, 2004 8:10 pm

Route Climbed: The Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 5 and 6, 2004  Sucess!

Went up Capitol Monday and Tuesday with a guide.

That mountain is no walk in the park and I was glad to be with

a guide because I sure would not want to run off that mountain nor

find the route in a storm. I thought it was hard enough with

someone who knew the route and with good weather. But that's me.

See trip report


DaveC - May 20, 2004 9:15 pm

Route Climbed: k2/knife edge Date Climbed: july 01  Sucess!

Probably the hardest 14er overall. Knife edge was overrated, but the summit block past it, and the K2 downclimb, were noteworthy. Long day, and well worth it. Tight but nice campsite near capitol lake.


sbkelley - May 12, 2004 3:41 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast (Knife) Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

What a cool mountain - everything from the approach to the peak from Capitol Creek to the campsites below the mountain near the lake to the climb itself was unforgettable! Definitely going to have to go back and do this one again!

Ryan Kowalski

Ryan Kowalski - Apr 19, 2004 5:07 pm

Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: July 5, 2003  Sucess!

We decided to do this from the trailhead in a day. Wow, what a long day it was. Left at 3 AM, got back around 4 or 5 PM. A LOOOONNNNGGG day. Knife-edge isn't too bad, but the exposure is still amazing. One of the neatest natural features in CO.


Nelson - Sep 4, 2003 4:30 pm

Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: August 31, 2003  Sucess!

What an awesome mountain! It was kind to us, and I reached the summit on my first visit. Hopefully not the last.


RyanS - Sep 2, 2003 11:34 am

Route Climbed: Knife-edge Date Climbed: August 31, 2003  Sucess!

Fantastic! We climbed Mount Daly first and were treated to what has to be one of the finest views of Capitol around. We downclimbed Daly's south ridge to Daly Pass, and then took the standard route up to Capitol. From there we descended to the lowpoint on the Clark-Capitol ridge and dropped down into the Pierre Lakes Basin. Out to Snowmass Creek via the rough Bear Creek Trail. Total trip time: 19.25 hours! A trip report is available here

Luigi - Aug 27, 2003 2:45 pm

Route Climbed: Capital Creek Date Climbed: August 24 2003  Sucess!

Great Mountain, two friends and I summited without a hitch, the knife-edge was awesome, but not that bad. There was only one move on the whole mountain that I thought was a little sketchy and that came after the knife edge.. Next time we'll try and do it in one day. Camped out at the lake on Saturday and summited on sunday


mtnhiker13 - Jul 22, 2003 1:52 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge-Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 20, 2003  Sucess!

Wow - what a mountain. I can't get it out of my head. An incredible climb and probably the pinnacle of my climbing season for this year and perhaps many years to come. This one would be tough to beat.

Many thanks to my climbing partner and sweetheart Aaron Johnson for getting me up this mountain. I couldn't have done it without you! He was right when he said it is a mountain we should climb together. What a sense of accomplishment we shared. A weekend together we will remember always.

We had incredible weather to assist us and a great plan. The wildflowers are wonderful in the area- take lots of film. I will post some pictures as soon as I can get them back and scanned in.


big_g - Mar 3, 2003 4:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2002

Route Climbed: Knife Ridge  Sucess!



zzril - Nov 22, 2002 12:25 pm

Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: July 1992  Sucess!

One of my all time favorites. Beautiful views on a perfect afternoon.


rmjwinters - Oct 6, 2002 6:50 pm

Route Climbed: Knife Edge Date Climbed: August 10  Sucess!

Long day hike, great traverse on the ridge and beautiful views. See trip report for details.


rcorby2 - Oct 2, 2002 6:56 am

Route Climbed: NE Ridge direct from Daly Pass Date Climbed: September 28, 2002

What an amazing approach hike! Climbing partner didn't want to climb so I climbed to Daly Pass by myself and linked up with another party of three. Took the NE ridge direct from Daly Pass. Week early season snow combined with non stop class 4 made movement slow. After 3.5 hours of movement we were just under K2, electricity crackling in the air and resulting thunder clap sent us down. As it turned out, the weather cleared up shortly after that. I'll post a TR in a bit and some video at an external site TBD. I think if we would have followed Roach's primary route we would have made it.

scotchhooligan - Sep 28, 2002 7:20 pm

Route Climbed: NE ridge Date Climbed: Sept 2002  Sucess!

New snowfall added extra excitement. Approach to lake is one of the most beautiful I've ever experienced. Knife edge was fun after I got my friend to man up and do it. Followed ridgeline almost all the way up, which was exposed but not too bad. Rope and gear is dead weight on standard route; never really thought about bringing it anyway.


kcrag - Sep 19, 2002 12:22 pm

Route Climbed: NORTHWEST BUTTRESS Date Climbed: August 31, 2002  Sucess!

18 pitches (crux is 5.9) and 21 hours. Needless to say, the climb took a little longer than we expected. Forced bivy at the top (2am) in order to descend via the knife ridge in daylight. What a beautiful thing to watch the sunrise at the summit of Capitol Peak. We were very fortunate to have had good weather that night (clear, but cold). VERY loose rock. As the 2nd, my helmet saved my head a few times. Be careful and climb safely!

Gimp Man - Sep 12, 2002 11:02 am

Route Climbed: Knife Edge Date Climbed: July 20, 2002  Sucess!

Great climb! Hiked up to lake and camped for Day 1. Day 2 - 5am start to summit and then back down to car. Long day but beautiful climb and hike. One of my favorites in Colorado. Definetly go up and over K2 to get to the summit.


rmjwinters - Aug 18, 2002 9:34 pm

Route Climbed: The Knife Edge Date Climbed: August 10, 2002  Sucess!

Long day from TH. I would recommend up and over K2. The north slopes of K2 are loose. The knife edge was great! It seemed to be overhyped and there are plenty of footholds a few feet off the knife edge itself. Great climb with lots of Class 3 and 4 to keep you company.

Matt Mahoney

Matt Mahoney - Aug 3, 2002 8:59 pm

Route Climbed: Capitol Creek/Knife Ridge Date Climbed: July 30 2002  Sucess!

Climbed with Scott B. as a day hike in 10:15 in perfect weather, sunny and clear all day. K2 to summit took 2 hours each way with constant exposure to 1000-1500 ft. falls. You have to think about every hand and foot movement. Hours of class 3 and 4 climbing. It was amazing. We did not use ropes. Scott has climbed 5.10 unroped and thought this and yesterday's Bells traverse was more scary because the danger is so prolonged.


theplugger - Aug 30, 2001 11:49 am

Route Climbed: Capitol Creek Approach Date Climbed: 8-26-95  Sucess!

First of all a backpack in to Capitol Lake followed by a climb of the peak via the Northeast Ridge the next day. Absolutely one of the most challenging and exciting of the 14er's I've done! Wow, what views from up there! This is one I'd definitely repeat if I could still climb 14er's!!


miztflip - Aug 30, 2001 5:54 am

Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 4, 1999  Sucess!

What a great climb. Tightroping the Knife Ridge was a blast.

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