I made it up Capitol Peak, my fourth Fourteener! This was my first attempt at the peak. I kind of feel bad that I made it up when others have made several unsuccessful attempts and still haven’t gained the summit. I was surprised to find that the incredible exposure didn’t bother me. After the climb the afternoon hike out sure was fun carrying a loaded pack!
My favorite Colorado mountain! After two aborted attempts with Aaron Johnson--one failing due to heavy snow on the mountain, the other a result of running out of time (but we compensated with a highly successful late afternoon loaf on top of K2)--returned on the above date with Aaron and Mark Anderson for a successful climb. The wonderful approach--through what seems the world's largest aspen grove--with views of Capitol's terrific north face does nothing but whet the appetite and get the adrenaline flowing! Our stint from K2 on was in somewhat chilly but good weather (in fact, snow flurries and gusty wind as we returned across the knife edge, but no need for ropes). A memorable trip highlight occurred on our return to Denver, when, after all the hours being folded in the jeep, I got to watch Aaron try getting out of the vehicle and "walk" to the house. Many thanks for the visual memory, my friend!
Used to West Snowmass Creek approach and it proved to be a difficult approach. Our plan was to bivy on the summit of Capitol but the approach involved alot of bushwacking and off trail hiking that we were spent by the time we almost hit the summit of K2. We found a great bivy site that someone had built up with a nice rock wall around it and very smooth dirt ground. Day two climbed Capitol and was able to walk the entire knife edge. Fun climbing and the rock was surpisingly very solid. Although I did manage to knock loose a huge slab and thank god nobody was below me when the slab went.
Went up Capitol Monday and Tuesday with a guide.
That mountain is no walk in the park and I was glad to be with
a guide because I sure would not want to run off that mountain nor
find the route in a storm. I thought it was hard enough with
someone who knew the route and with good weather. But that's me.
See trip report
Probably the hardest 14er overall. Knife edge was overrated, but the summit block past it, and the K2 downclimb, were noteworthy. Long day, and well worth it. Tight but nice campsite near capitol lake.
What a cool mountain - everything from the approach to the peak from Capitol Creek to the campsites below the mountain near the lake to the climb itself was unforgettable! Definitely going to have to go back and do this one again!
We decided to do this from the trailhead in a day. Wow, what a long day it was. Left at 3 AM, got back around 4 or 5 PM. A LOOOONNNNGGG day. Knife-edge isn't too bad, but the exposure is still amazing. One of the neatest natural features in CO.
What an awesome mountain! It was kind to us, and I reached the summit on my first visit. Hopefully not the last.
Fantastic! We climbed Mount Daly first and were treated to what has to be one of the finest views of Capitol around. We downclimbed Daly's south ridge to Daly Pass, and then took the standard route up to Capitol. From there we descended to the lowpoint on the Clark-Capitol ridge and dropped down into the Pierre Lakes Basin. Out to Snowmass Creek via the rough Bear Creek Trail. Total trip time: 19.25 hours! A trip report is available here
Great Mountain, two friends and I summited without a hitch, the knife-edge was awesome, but not that bad. There was only one move on the whole mountain that I thought was a little sketchy and that came after the knife edge.. Next time we'll try and do it in one day. Camped out at the lake on Saturday and summited on sunday
Wow - what a mountain. I can't get it out of my head. An incredible climb and probably the pinnacle of my climbing season for this year and perhaps many years to come. This one would be tough to beat.
Many thanks to my climbing partner and sweetheart Aaron Johnson for getting me up this mountain. I couldn't have done it without you! He was right when he said it is a mountain we should climb together. What a sense of accomplishment we shared. A weekend together we will remember always.
We had incredible weather to assist us and a great plan. The wildflowers are wonderful in the area- take lots of film. I will post some pictures as soon as I can get them back and scanned in.
One of my all time favorites. Beautiful views on a perfect afternoon.
Long day hike, great traverse on the ridge and beautiful views. See trip report for details.
What an amazing approach hike! Climbing partner didn't want to climb so I climbed to Daly Pass by myself and linked up with another party of three. Took the NE ridge direct from Daly Pass. Week early season snow combined with non stop class 4 made movement slow. After 3.5 hours of movement we were just under K2, electricity crackling in the air and resulting thunder clap sent us down. As it turned out, the weather cleared up shortly after that. I'll post a TR in a bit and some video at an external site TBD. I think if we would have followed Roach's primary route we would have made it.
New snowfall added extra excitement. Approach to lake is one of the most beautiful I've ever experienced. Knife edge was fun after I got my friend to man up and do it. Followed ridgeline almost all the way up, which was exposed but not too bad. Rope and gear is dead weight on standard route; never really thought about bringing it anyway.
18 pitches (crux is 5.9) and 21 hours. Needless to say, the climb took a little longer than we expected. Forced bivy at the top (2am) in order to descend via the knife ridge in daylight. What a beautiful thing to watch the sunrise at the summit of Capitol Peak. We were very fortunate to have had good weather that night (clear, but cold). VERY loose rock. As the 2nd, my helmet saved my head a few times. Be careful and climb safely!
Great climb! Hiked up to lake and camped for Day 1. Day 2 - 5am start to summit and then back down to car. Long day but beautiful climb and hike. One of my favorites in Colorado. Definetly go up and over K2 to get to the summit.
Long day from TH. I would recommend up and over K2. The north slopes of K2 are loose. The knife edge was great! It seemed to be overhyped and there are plenty of footholds a few feet off the knife edge itself. Great climb with lots of Class 3 and 4 to keep you company.
Climbed with Scott B. as a day hike in 10:15 in perfect weather, sunny and clear all day. K2 to summit took 2 hours each way with constant exposure to 1000-1500 ft. falls. You have to think about every hand and foot movement. Hours of class 3 and 4 climbing. It was amazing. We did not use ropes. Scott has climbed 5.10 unroped and thought this and yesterday's Bells traverse was more scary because the danger is so prolonged.