Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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54.46500°N / 3.195°W |
Route Type:
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Ice / snow climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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Grade II |
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Approach
Central Gully is the most obvious gully on the mountain and is situated in the centre of the north-facing crag.
Route Description
Climb the initial lower half of the gully over two chockstone pitches, which are usually ice covered or banked out with snow until the gully widens into a small amphitheatre. Climb up towards the right hand side to a rock wall and vertical ice. Climb the rock wall by its left edge (crux) or the vertical ice (which is harder) and move left at the top. Another short steep chockstone pitch follows (Nut belay on left wall) and then continues up to the gully to the top via easy snow slope.
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Essential Gear
Two ice screws
Dead man
selection of wires nuts
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Probemeister - Jan 21, 2004 8:06 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe number of chockstone pitches below the amphitheatre varies between 1 and 4 depending on the snow build up