Caught in a storm at 18,000 plus... lightening. Dumped 4 inches of fresh snow during the 2 hours we bivuaced. Turned around in very dangerous avalanche loaded conditions. Went from clear skies to storm in 30 minutes.
Horrible weather all the way up and down. Could never see more than 10 meters in front. Still,made it to the top completely covered in ice.
Normal Wymper route. Climbed with a couple of friends from Oreagon who I met in Ecuador. Summit was unfortunatly in mist just like Cotopaxi!
Great weather but very tough conditions. I had to use the lower hut (4,800 meters) since the Whymper hut route had a lot of black ice. There was a lot of black ice leading up to and past the Castillo. Above the ridge there was a lot of very hard blue ice requiring multiple consecutive pitches. My axe sometimes glanced-off the surface! After this there were some crevasses and a huge penitente field up to 6-7 feet high starting below 6,000 meters and covering the Veintimilla summit. The route to the Whymper summit and the summit itself was protected by extensive penitente fields up to 10 feet high! Of course I didn't go past the Veintimilla summit.
Fun, if not a long, one day climb.
Stayed in the comfortable Whymper Refugio following climbs of Cayambe and Cotopaxi. Midnight start. Encountered some fun ice on the glacier. Pointe Veintemilla reached in fog. A great climb. (Cold beer at hut on return.) Perfect end to a great expedition.
First climb where I hit 'the wall' (I was a walking zombie, taking 10 breaths per step) Luckily, though, we were only 10 minutes from the summit.
In 1989 with some of my climbing buddies we went to Ecuador. At the time I was 18. I remember that we were racing toward the summit just for the fun of it.
Camped on the glacier at 19,200 ft. Awesome experience. First day to camp gave us blue skies and great views. We had a good strong start. I hated the Ventimilla dome. Had a little clear skies on the summit (Whymper) but it clouded in fast. There was an increadible white-out traversing back to Ventimilla, very depressing as I could not see my progress until I got there. Had a quick descent. Very enjoyable.
Our American guide brought his 10 yr old son along. He made it as well. Youngest I've ever heard of making it up Chimbo!
Chimborazo is a real challenge when the weather does not cooperate. I was not lucky, so the climb was really tough because of extremely cold and windy weather. Anyway, impressive mountain and rewarding summit!
After terrible weather on Cotopaxi, the absolutely perfect starry windless night on Chimborazo was a relief. At the Whymper summit for sunrise and nearly every volcano in Ecuador could be seen. My partner got AMS early on and the guide took her down. He then reascended and caught up with me and another rope team a few hundred meters higher. I would definitely recommend Freddy with Moggely climbing as a guide. We summitted in 6 hours. Remember- Veintimilla is not the summit.
Alpine grade PD (40 degrees, + 1500m from Refugio Carrel), with a guide of the native community of Guargalla, windy during the night and good weather in the morning. If you climb with a guide, make sure he takes you to the true summit (Cumbre Whymper). Many of them prefer turning back at Cumbre Veintemilla avoiding the long traverse to Whymper, pretending the summit is reached !
Icy! We bailed before we got in over our heads. Nobody summited that day.
I enjoyed this climb much more than Cotopaxi. Maybe I was more acclimitised but i think also because the terrain is more varied. Just the guide and I left at midnight and at Ventimillia at 7am. I must admit looked over at the whmper summit and didnt think any thing further could be gained by walking across to that mound. I was just wearing marmot spring gloves and hands got a bit chilly towards the top. Both my and my guides feet were very cold even in plastics. Wonderfully clear conditions, a bit of mist on the top slighly impeding 360 deg views. We used a screw going up on one section but just leaned right back on our crampons going down.
Start from whyper refuge at 0000
9 people + 5 guides
Steep trip, hard and dirty ice
Climb only 500 m (1600 ft) in 3 hr
Clearly unabble to reach the summit (maybe tired after more than 2 weeks climbing and trekking)
Turn back with 3 others at 5500 m
Bad weather coming, at lot of wind
Nobody could reach the summit this day due to fresh snow at 6100 m (19800 ft) just before pt Ventimilla
Climbing back in the night was quite dangerous
- difficult to find the way (even with an experienced guide)
- no moonlight
It is really more difficult than Cotopaxi
We left at 11am and reached the false summit a bit after 6am, in time to watch the sunrise. We made the traverse over to the Whymper summit and hurried down as fast as our four person party could go. A few rocks were already coming off the lower glacier and icy cliffs, but none hit our party.
Excellent weather day, great views of the other peaks and got to watch the southern cross during much of the climb.
Photos and Journals
left the hut around 1am reached the summit at
7am.. climbing conditions were perfecto .. made
great time. beautiful sunrise!
Made it to Veintemilla in a tad over 6h 30m. Pretty beat but would have dragged myself over to Whymper if I hadn't been overruled. There's always next time.
The last mountain to hit on my Ecuador Andes trip. Left the hut at 1230 and summited (Ventemilla) at 0830. The conditions were very icy. Placed screws on few occasions. No time or energy to continue onto Whymper. Still satisfying. The descent was interesting....from low visibility to icy slopes (a slip would have been lethal, if not fatal). Combination of rappin off and down climbing.
Full trip report of my Ecuador trip to come soon.
Summited via normal route about 06.15 in the morning. After having failed on Cotopaxi this was a nice "revenge".