Central serac direct route.
Early season climb of North face made easy with the rock band almost completely banked out with snow. Easy mixed passage of less than 10m to get through it. Descended normal route with 3 or 4 rappels over the rocky section.
Very nice climb with fantastic views from Vittorio Emanuele II refuge.
Nice, grade III rock-climbing on the ridge. After that some snow/ice to the summit. Nice climb fot a short day.
See also my website here.
The north face is transforming rapidly over the last years. The lower part and the upper part of the face are separated by a couloir (approx. 15m wide). 6 lengths of blue ice from the lower part of the couloir till the summit. Lower part about 40°, couloir 65-70°, upper part 50° (so it felt, no hands free for accurate measurements).
Nice North Face intro, probably AD with max pitch at 50 degrees, route - straight up.
Nice tour (except for the thunderstorm in descend). 40-45’ 30 meter 65-70’ (So it felt)
Great surrounding and not to difficult. .
from the Vittorio Emanuele II refuge
dal rifugio V. Emanuele
Very nice ice climb, no danger, mainly 45° only 1 pitch probabily 55/60°.These were the conditions on 1968...probabily today are different.
Nice and easy climb on moderate steep slope