Cima della Vezzana via Canalino del Travignolo

Cima della Vezzana via Canalino del Travignolo

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.28970°N / 11.82980°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Alpine PD
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Cima della Vezzana 3192 m is the highest mountain of the Pale di San Martino Group in the Western Dolomites. It is located near the Passo Rolle, in the North-West sector of the group, next to the most striking Cimon della Pala. It is bordered to the south by the Passo Travignolo 2925 m and to the north by the Passo Val Strut 2870 m. To the west of the mountain there is a wide gully, partly occupied by the Travignolo glacier, which reaches the upper Val Venegia along which it takes place the described route.

 

Cima Vezzana and Cimon della Pala
Cima Vezzana and Cimon della Pala - Photo taken by Vid Pogachnik

Approach

Take the motorway A22 exit “Egna, Ora/Neumarkt, Auer” and continue along road SS48. At Predazzo turn right onto road SS50 and follow “Passo Valles” signs. Stop at the parking place at the begin of “Val Venegia” valley, about 1.700 meters altitude, which is the starting point of the trip.

History

Cima Vezzana was conquered in June 1878 by the English Douglas William Freshfield and Charles Comyns Tucker, who reached the summit from the Travignolo glacier.

Route description

Summit altitude: 3192 m

Difficulty: PD 

Difference in level: 1250 m

Upper part of Cima della...
Beta of the route - The broken line shows the not visible part of the climb

 

Approach

From Passo Rolle reach the Baita Segantini 2170 m  on an easy road (shortcuts on paths). From here, traverse sharply to the right (on evident traces of trail, in the absence of snow), without losing too much altitude, towards the Cimon della Pala; cross the basal snowfields up to the wide basin between the Cimon della Pala and the Cima della Vezzana, which on this side falls with high walls.

Route report

Climb up the wide and easy snowy slopes for about 500 m of difference in level; pay attention that at the top, in late season, some crevasses could open. At about 2700 m the ground becomes steeper and you slip into the obvious gully on the left that leads to the Passo del Travignolo (200 m at 45°, stretches to 50°). With scarse snow halfway it can emerge a large boulder; it is overcome on the right with a short, steeper passage. Several equipped belay are located on the right facing in.
From the wide pass (2925 m) turn to left on easy slopes and then follow on snow or easy rocks the ridge leading to the summit of Cima della Vezzana (summer path, trail n. 716, the summit appears only at the last moment).

 

The route can also be a fine ski-mountaineering goal with a highlight: the exciting ascent over the former Travignolo glacier among the vertical walls of Cima Vezzana left and Cimon della Pala right, up to the Passo Travignolo. The difficulty of this trip depends very much on the snow conditions, it's always considered difficult, because of the steepness of the final part below the saddle (up to 50°) and the 3 meters high rock nose, close by the pass, which can be insidious due to snow and ice. Follow the path which leads through the long but marvellous Val Venegia

Approaching the Travignolo glacier along the beautiful Venegia valley
Amazing views in the nearly untouched Venegia valley

Continue until the slope from the Passo del Travignolo saddle is visible on the left side

The ascent over the Travignolo glacier begins

Head towards the saddle and begin the ascent in itself, which now becomes very steep

The steepest part of the trip below the rock nose.
Reaching the Travignolo saddle

Arrived at the saddle turn left and continue along the Vezzana Est slopes, gaining easily the summit. The descent is done along the ascent itinerary

Red  Tape

No fees no permits required

Essential Gear

Complete mountaineering equipment, crampons, ice axe, rope

When to climb 

Mountaineering: from May to June

Ski-mountaineering: From March to May

Accomodation

Different kind of accoodation in S.Martino di Castrozza

Meteo

Meteotrentino

Guidebooks and Maps

Pale di San Martino Ovest guidebook

 

Pale di S. Martino Ovest" by Lucio De Franceschi - Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.